'Jancis Robinson' Mixed White & Red Case - £243.25 (1 bottle of each)

Reboreda Morgadío, Puerta Santa Albariño 2016 Rías Baixas
Smells crisp, of green peaches and a clean, green herbal tingle that pulls through the palate with salty tension. Delivers a lot of length for the price. GV (TC). 12.5% alc. Drink 2018 – 2020. 16 points

Les Eminades, Silice 2014 IGP Pays d'Hérault Coteaux de Fontcaude
Organic. Fragrant lemon verbena nose that in no way prepares you for the magnificent, towering, soaring structure of this wine. Architectural beauty! Between the struts and pinions: wild honey and lemon and beeswax. Graphite and hot stone. Smoky smoky crystal-cut citrus on the finish. VGV (TC) 13% alc. Drink 2017 – 2023. 17.5 points

Dom FL, La Croix Picot trocken 2015 Savennières
Chenin Blanc. Certified organic. Does anything in the world smell quite like Savennières?! As if someone ground up steel wool, tarragon, chalk, lemon peel, petrichor, beeswax and honeysuckle into a powder, freeze-dried it and then flung it on ice-cold mountain-stream water and held it to your nose. Then you taste it and it’s all rigid and arms-tightly-crossed-across-the-body and bony shoulders, and you think: #issues. Then you feel annoyed because you paid good money for this and really, there must be more. So you go back. Sniff hard. More of the above bewildering stuff. Taste again. Hint,tiny hint, of honey. There’s a reverberation in those skinny bones. As if someone plucked the string of a harp and you heard it in your own bones. You go back. This angry rigid little wine is starting to get under your skin. Dust. Rain-wet dust. It tastes of dust. Really? Is that good? It is. It tastes of dust and the outline of honey and that cold, ancient, cold, smooth of stones that have been washed by centuries of river. It’s not a wine for contented sipping. It’s a wine for hard, pissed-off, no-excuses soul-searching. And hard goat’s cheese. Or, if you’re a beautiful at-peace soul, chuck it in the cellar for a few years and when it’s got over all its teenage issues, bring it out and have it with fish pie. (TC). 13.3% alc. Drink 2018 – 2028. 17 points

Gunderloch, Als wär’s ein Stück von mir Riesling 2015 Rheinhessen
So smoky. Struck match and a whiff of biscuity spice. Fiercely direct, steely lime, long and determined and proudly dry. There's a spine-tingling ascetic purity to this wine that is almost piercing. I've said drink from this year, but personally I'd hold it back another year or even two. (TC) 12.5% alc. Drink 2018 – 2024. 17 points

Montonale, Orestilla 2016 Lugana
Smells nutty and fresh green, of pine nuts and basil leaf, deep and intoxicating. Gorgeous sweetness and nuttiness and mouth-drawing zest on the palate – walnuts in lime syrup and melons and crystallised ginger. Wickedly pointed on the long finish. (TC) 13% alc. Drink 2018 – 2023. 17 points

Muxagat, Os Xistos Altos Rabigato 2014 Douro
Crisp as cold aluminium on the nose. Citrus, broom flower and chamomile tea, elegant and genteel despite a waxy texture. Refined cut of acidity. Spicy finish. Glitters with minerality. Begging for a Moroccan salted-lemon tagine. (TC) 12% alc. Drink 2016 – 2022. 17 points

Roger Peguet, Chardignon 2011 Côte de Brouilly
Such a treat to get hold of an aged Beaujolais at just the peak of its life! I'd pounce on this. Deep, dusty-plum perfume. And then a mouthful of toasted plums, white pepper, cello-sweet depth, the haunting other-path to the melody. Silky… and then it pounces with a little bit of claw. Walnut-skin texture and savouriness on the finish. Wonderful. Just wonderful. Extraordinarily fresh and ready. Still so much life. So much length. (TC) 14% alc. Drink 2015 – 2020. 17 points

Pietro Caciorgna, Ciauria 2015 Etna
Nerello Mascalese. Clear and lifted and scrumptious from the first sniff to the last, lingering taste of grilled plums and rock dust. Red-berried, concentrated sweetness but so much tang and minerality that it negates any chance of jamminess. Well-laced, well-braced tannins. Just great gritty stuff. (TC) 13.5% alc. Drink 2018 – 2023. 16.5 points

Son Puig, Barrica 2014 Vino de la Tierra Mallorca
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo. Just 4,568 bottles. Pure, very slightly smoky, red plums. On the nose a tiny, mouth-watering suggestion of melted gruyère, and on the palate just a big, belting, chest-heaving, arms-wide soprano of glorious red fruit. Then smoke. And graphite. And just a tremolo of spice. Parenthetical tannins, which you barely notice because you’re just closing your eyes in the resonance. Long and satisfying and without realising, you've wrapped yourself around it. (TC) 14% alc. Drink 2018 – 2024. 17 points

Dom des Deux Clés, Réserve 2016 IGP Vallée du Paradis
Dark, roasted fruits; mulberries and molten chocolate. Incredible mid-palate dance of cassis and intensity and velvety coffee. Dramatic and flaring, dark and opulent. Very seductive. (TC) 14.5% alc. Drink 2018 – 2022. 16.5 points

Alpha Box & Dice, Siren Nero d'Avola 2016 McLaren Vale
Lavender scented, parma violets, chalky. Victoria plums framed in lovely dry, spicy tannins. Strong caraway notes. It's a framework that owns the wine, spice over fruit, giving wiry strength and savour through the length of the palate. Bit of a rebel, heel-kicking spirit here, but basically, it's delicious. (TC) 13% alc. Drink 2018 – 2022. 17 points

Vallana 2007 Gattinara
Rosehip tea and chipotle and hibiscus – exceptional, spellbinding on the bouquet alone. Thrumming with spice in a silken web of tannins, rose petals and fading cherries. A wine that finds half-forgotten stories, drifting memories, and weaves poetry from the fragments. Hauntingly beautiful. (TC) 13% alc. Drink 2013 – 2025. 17.5 points