Le Maudit, Domaine Treloar, Roussillon 2012

Le Maudit Treloar.jpg
Le Maudit Treloar.jpg

Le Maudit, Domaine Treloar, Roussillon 2012

25.95

The 'Oxford Companion to Wine' seems to lose its composure when it comes to Carignan. The admirable reference book is normally impartial in tone, focusing on bare facts and data, but whoever was responsible for the Carignan entry seems to have been unduly upset by it. It is described as lacking in "finesse and charm" and having "the double inconvenience of being unsuitable for early consumption yet unworthy of maturation" and ends with the following entreaty: "Let some interesting old Carignan vines be treasured but let it not be planted."

Perhaps a Carignan grape stole the contributor's lunch money when they were younger, but whatever the cause, here's a wine that will surely change their mind. It's an absolute stunner! Very little of it is made each year, so grab it while you can.

It pours a deep, inky crimson and has a gorgeously rich nose that suggests a wine that has been made with a free hand, not a textbook. It tastes naturally rich, not cosmetically enhanced. There is an abundance of fleshy, hand-crushed black berries, an impression of broken rocks, cracked black pepper and woodsmoke. It's dark and brooding, with firm tannins, but such a wealth of fruit that it swamps the structure. A very stylish interpretation of an underrated grape variety, full of charm and finesse and suitable for early consumption or further maturation. 14% alc. Drink now-2020.

Press Reviews:

JancisRobinson.com: "The first hit off the nose is an unexpectedly Cabernet Franc-like sharpened-pencil note, followed swiftly by the lift of wood varnish. Then it settles into something deeper, more brambly, crushed wild berries and that sweet-earthy-decay scent of old autumn leaves kicked up in the cold wet months of February. Mushroom. Rough-hewn tannins curling loosely around dried fruit and juniper-perfumed gaminess. Orange-citrus acidity fills the mouth, hinting at plums and Christmas, and then wanes, leaving tendrils of wood smoke, black tea leaf and dry spices. Roussillon in a glass." 17/20 points

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