NEW! Kéké Beaujolais, Kewin Descombes, France 2017


NEW! Kéké Beaujolais, Kewin Descombes, France 2017


If you didn’t realise Beaujolais was back in fashion, then you may also be surprised to learn that Donald Trump is President of America, Britain has decided to leave the European Union and England won the World Cup without even reaching the final. Read the papers if you don’t believe me.  

Yes, Beaujolais is hip again and it has recently been awarded the highest honour that can be bestowed by the hipster community, it has been abbreviated to a catchy, rhyming abbreviation: Bojo. Ask for a chilled glass of bojo at a wine bar in Soho and watch the boho in the moho praise your mojo saying “yolo” while fretting about fomo (*glossary below). Perhaps confused, but attracted by the recommendation to “drink chilled", it has become the coolest red to drink this summer.

This is a joyful example of a seriously well-made Beaujolais, displaying the soft tannins, light body, relatively low alcohol (12%) and floral perfume that Bojo aficionados love, but with extra depth and complexity and none of the cheap and nasty, lollipop flavours that kept this appellation in the doldrums for so long. It’s a wine for lovers of Pinot Noir, Nerello Mascalese, Cinsault, Zweigelt and other light, but perfumed grape varieties. Drink it chilled (20 to 30 minutes in the fridge should do) from a wide-bowled glass, as you might a good red Burgundy. It’s pale in colour with natural aromas of raspberries, violets, strawberries, fresh soil and a slight woody undertone like rolling a partially-naked cherry stone around your tongue. It’s frivolous in terms of its exuberant freshness, but it shows its class ‘beneath the bonnet’ in its balance, persistence and finesse.12% alc. Drink now -2021.

Kewin Descombes
Kewin Descombes (or ‘Kéké’ to his mates) is a Beaujolais thoroughbred, the son of Georges Descombes, the unofficial fifth member of the original ‘Gang of Four’ (Lapierre, Thevenet, Foillard and Breton), and half-brother to the equally precocious Damien Coquelet, so it was almost inevitable that Kéké would take up the mantle. Still only in his twenties, he is following in his father’s footsteps and only uses hand-harvested grapes from organic vineyards in and around Morgon and ferments traditionally with whole clusters and wild yeasts and only uses minimal sulphur at bottling to keep the wine stable and fresh

Press review:

Jancis Robinson
: “50-year-old-vines. Organic. Semi-carbonic vinification. Aged for five months in old wood. Richly perfumed with blackberry and spice, soft tannic stubble and great purity of blueberry fruit on the finish. Too precocious and light to warrant cellaring – drink this now to get the most out of that superb fruit. (RH) 12%. Drink 2018-2020.” 17 points

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