Albariño Alberto Nanclares, Rias Baixas, Spain 2015

Nanclares Albarino.jpg
Nanclares Albarino.jpg

Albariño Alberto Nanclares, Rias Baixas, Spain 2015

17.95

Alberto Nanclares's vineyards begin at his garden gate and tumble down to the Atlantic Ocean, which is no more than a stone's throw away (well, maybe not the way I throw), conferring a cool, marine influence on the vines (although Alberto told me that any saline quality in his wines comes from the soil not the proximity to the water). It would be an overstatement to call his property anything grander than a smallholding, but I can highly recommend a stroll amid the pergolas (the traditional, overhead method of training vines in Rias Baixas), from which the canopies hang, and the herbs and flowers that grow wild among the rows. You might forgive a wine merchant if, on a spring day, he got carried away with the splendour of it all and broke into a little skip. You might, mightn't you?

This beautiful, lip-smacking Albariño was partly aged in stainless steel and partly in large oak casks, so there's a keen, racy aspect to the fruit from the unoaked portion, which is packed with grapefruit, lemon peel, mint and a chalky minerality, while the wooded element brings background notes of nut shells and sandalwood. With its bold and vivid citrus notes, it reminds me of the scintillating wines made by Alice and Olivier de Moor in Chablis, where acidity is a badge of honour not just a constituent element. On the day I visited, the smell of wild mint in the vineyard was unmistakable, which is why I've included mint in the description above regardless of whether it was true or autosuggestion. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2020.

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