Birichino Malvasia, Monterey, California 2014

Birichino Malvasia.jpg
Birichino Malvasia.jpg

Birichino Malvasia, Monterey, California 2014

16.95

We swerved the 2013 vintage, because it was too aromatic and had 4 grams per litre of residual sugar, leaving it a little too ripe and exotic, but the 2014 is back to the racy, tense, nervy style we love in this wine. As always, the nose is floral (the winemaker cites specifically the plumeria flower), but there's lychee and white rose and peach as well. The sleight of hand comes when you take your first sip and discover how crisp and dry it is (less than 1 g/l residual sugar). It's like the twist of lemon peel in a gin and tonic, pithy and tooth-drying, but balanced by riper white-fleshed orchard fruits. It's only light-bodied, but it packs a lot of zesty citrus into its slinky frame. 13% alc. Drink now-2017

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