Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Champs Gains’ Jean-Louis Chavy 2013

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains Jean-Louis Chavy 2013.jpg
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains Jean-Louis Chavy 2013.jpg

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Champs Gains’ Jean-Louis Chavy 2013


Much of our time is spent looking for doppelgangers, those elusive creatures who survive by mimicking wines from more famous regions, giving similar, often more exciting experiences than their more illustrious (and expensive) counterparts. However, once in a while, we have to stop in wonder and take our hat* off to an interpretation of a classic that can’t be replicated or outdone and this Puligny-Montrachet is a case in point and it’s all to do with the quality of the site.

The premier cru vineyard ‘Les Champs Gains’ neighbours the mighty ‘Les Folatieres’ (you could argue that we’re simply playing the doppelganger game at a higher level here!), and is everything a Puligny-Montrachet should be: featherlight and flinty on the nose (the Burgundians use the word aérien which translates roughly as ‘flighty’), while the palate is tightly-woven, but deceptively rich and concentrated, stretching across the palate with quartz-like minerals, nervous citrus, ripe peach and an array of toasty flavours similar to walking into a boulangerie in the morning, just as the ovens are being opened. It’s a wine that should spark cognitive dissonance in all who taste it, and who doesn’t want that from a wine!

I simply mean that it manages a set of intriguing paradoxes with its impressions of richness, yet weightlessness, coolness, yet ripeness, minerality, yet fruitiness and somehow utterly harmonious despite all of that. It’s a wine to enjoy now and over the next 2 or 3 years. It may last longer, but, frankly, why wait? It’s like watching a ballerina at the peak of her talent. Don’t come back later when she has arthritis.

( *I believe the use of hat (singular) is grammatically correct, although it might suggest that we share a hat, which is not the case. Use of the plural would suggest that we each wear more than one hat at any given time, which is also untrue. But I digress.).

‘Les Champs Gains’ - Premier Cru vineyard
The Premier Cru vineyard ‘Les Champs Gains’ is located just above ‘Les Folatieres’, one of the finest Chardonnay vineyards in all of Burgundy and, by extension, the world. The south east-facing vines recently celebrated their 50th birthday. Jean-Louis describes the wines from this site as being ‘discreet’, but showing very well from a young age. The advantage of its relatively high altitude (340 to 360 metres) is that the cooler mornings and nights confer higher tones to the aromatic compounds in the grape skins, with more floral, citrus tones emerging. The vines, planted on shallow, rocky soil, rich in limestone, bring the signature minerality to the wine. 

Customer comments:

"Just to say thanks for the wine. All were fantastic. The Chavy was immense," - Mr H.S., - December 2016

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