McHenry Hohnen 'Calgardup Brook' Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia 2014

McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay.jpg
McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay.jpg

McHenry Hohnen 'Calgardup Brook' Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia 2014

21.95

There's still an element of relief when you pour an Australian Chardonnay and the liquid that fills your glass looks pale and bright, like silver-leaf, not deep, like golden treacle. Thankfully those overripe and overoaked Chardonnays are a thing of the past, but the pendulum has started swinging too far in the opposite direction now, with winemakers picking so early to retain acidity that the wines can become astringent and frugal in flavour.. As in all things, there's a balance to be struck and we thought this was a great example of a Margaret River Chardonnay that has freshness, verve and energy allied to a generosity of flavour that is positively lip-smacking. 

On the nose there's a wonderful 'come hither' combination of 'struck match' flintiness and peachy stone-fruit ripeness before the dessert trolley passes by with creme brulé, millefeuille pastries and lemon meringue pie. The palate has a silky, willowy texture with all the flavours in perfect harmony and no bitterness or burn thanks to the unobtrusive alcohol content of 13.5%. Drink now-2022.

Nerdities: Hand-harvested. Whole bunch pressed. Indigenous yeast ferment. No additions of yeast, acid, yeast nutrient etc. 20% new French Oak, remainder two and three year old French Oak. No malolactic fermentation. Battonage and aged on lees. 13.5% alc. 

Press reviews:

The Australian Wine Companion: "The Calgardup Brook Vineyard lies just inland from the coast, with well weathered sandy, schisty soils; hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed to French oak (20% new), wild-fermented, no mlf, aged on lees. Lemon meringue is a great call for the bouquet, some spice also in the action; elegant white peach flavours give way to bouncy grapefruit zest on the well balanced and long finish." 95 points

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