Morillon vom Opok, Weingut Werlitsch, Austria 2013

Morillon vom Opok, Weingut Werlitsch, Austria 2013.jpg
Morillon vom Opok, Weingut Werlitsch, Austria 2013.jpg

Morillon vom Opok, Weingut Werlitsch, Austria 2013

24.50

Not every discovery is the result of us knocking on a rustic farm door and meeting some enchanting winemaker who opens up his cellar and invites us to stay for a humble meal. Mostly, of course, but not always. This discovery was much simpler. We had tried at at the excellent Clipstone restaurant and immediately set about finding out who imported it, because it thrilled everyone at the table.

Morillon is the Austrian word for Chardonnay and this is Chardonnay on a knife edge. There's a bold mineral cut to the aromas that immediately announce the wine's intentions. Buttery and oaky this is not, but if you like the biodynamic, wild yeast, unfiltered groove, then this should be right up your strasse. It's similar to the great Chardonnays being made by Alice and Olivier de Moor in Chablis with an almost insane energy to the fruit. Wild herbs and meadow flowers, candied grapefruit peel, white currant and a lightly saline finish. One of the world's great Chardonnays. Not to be missed. Drink now-2025

Jancis Robinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): "100% Chardonnay, organic certified. De-stemmed fruit fermented with natural ambient yeast and aged in three-year-old barrels of various sizes for two years. Unfiltered. Smoky vanilla pods and then by almost shocking contrast, stingingly high acidity and flavours of dill and cornichon cut across the palate. Earthy, yet creamy, yet lean – it made me think of a bowl of sweetly nutty Jersey Royal potatoes tossed in sour cream, lemon zest and garnished with chopped capers. Glorious food wine. Drink 2017-2022." 17 points

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