Vidonia, Suertes del Marques, Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain 2017

Vidonia Suertes del Marques.jpg
Vidonia Suertes del Marques.jpg

Vidonia, Suertes del Marques, Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain 2017

36.00

This is a hugely exciting wine by any standards, although it's probably not a wine for learner drinkers or those who still have their stabilisers on, because it's from rocky terrain.  Old vineyards on a volcano in the Atlantic Ocean are unlikely to produce a wine you can ignore and this mesmerisingly complex and delicious wine is undeniably informed by its rocky, salty, maritime birthplace.  It's as thrilling to our tastebuds as any of the great white Burgundies, which can express their origins with similar eloquence, and it shares some of the struck flint and insistent fruit of the very best. Even if you don't think it's one of the most exciting wines you have ever tasted, as we do, you'll be amazed by its sense of drama. Clay soils at 350-450 m. Listan Blanco vines of 100+ years old on volcanic and basaltic soils. Fermented in used 500-litre barrels, with 11 months on lees.
 

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “The top white is the 2017 Vidonia, produced with Listán Blanco grapes from the estate vineyards, where the soils have more clay and the wines tend to be more elegant. 2017 was a warm and early year, when the grapes were picked early, with 13% alcohol and a pH of 2.94. It fermented and matured in 500-litre oak barrels for 11 months. It has an incredibly elegant profile, nuanced and clean, very transparent, with great purity and focused, precise flavours. This wine has come a long way, it started as a barrel selection and it's now a completely separate cuvée vinified by soil type, where they look for places that can deliver more elegant wines. A Listán Blanco of amazing finesse. 8,000 bottles were filled in September 2018. Drink 2019-2023.” 95 points

Jamie Goode: “Listan Blanco from clay soils in the middle of the Orotava Valley. 11 months in barrel. Lovely focus and elegance here, showing fine citrus fruit and a hint of wax, with lovely finesse. Has a rounded mouthfeel but also lively acidity (pH 2.9). Thrilling stuff.” 94 points

Greg Sherwood MW: “Alluring aromatics of white citrus, wet chalk, crushed green apples and pear purée. Lovely pure smokey note balanced by sweet quince, white peach and a spicy, lemon and herb complexity. Creamy and cool on the palate, this Listan Blanco parcela wine shows a lot of similarities to a fine slightly reductive white Burgundy. Really delicious but also quite a serious glassful!.“ 94 points

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Farming: organic