Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Sur la Roche’, Gilles Morat, Burgundy, France 2016

Pouilly Fuisse ‘Sur la Roche’ Gilles Morat 2016.jpg
Pouilly Fuisse ‘Sur la Roche’ Gilles Morat 2016.jpg

Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Sur la Roche’, Gilles Morat, Burgundy, France 2016

from 29.95

One poke of your nose into a swirling glass of this Pouilly-Fuissé and you instantly get the assurance that this is ‘proper white Burgundy’. It’s not a Coche-Dury copycat or a Roulot wannabe and it doesn’t have trendy ‘struck match’ reduction, but it’s Burgundian Chardonnay at its most elegant and deceptive best. Deceptive in the sense that it’s at once chiselled and citrussy, yet creamy and buttery too, a seeming paradox that somehow makes sense when you taste it. There’s richness in terms of fruit concentration, but it’s lean muscle, not fat, and it carries the wine forward with momentum rather than dragging it down with weight. There’s an urgency to the fruit, like a frisky limestone Chablis, but there’s more sweetness and complexity than you would find up there and the accompanying notes of crème fraiche, canary melon, grapefruit, honeyed orchard fruits and cold, white Normandy butter bring a real touch of finesse. Served blind, you may well guess it came from a smarter appellation or at least a Premier Cru, which we now know isn’t surprising, because ‘Sur La Roche’ will soon be elevated to that status. 13% alc. Drink 2019-2028.


Press reviews:

Decanter (Matt Wilkins MW)
: “Ripe, savoury melon, grilled nuts and toasted oak scents, with notes of vanilla, orange and stony earth. It has ripe stone fruit flavours on the palate, with a  blood orange core. Weighted and balanced, it shows great energy, savoury movement and fine, saline persistence.” 96 points

Decanter (Stephen Brook): “Reticent melon nose with a whiff of woodsmoke. It’s rich and broad, with weight and flesh, and it’s just on the right side of heaviness thanks to its concentration and mineral bite. Perky and persistent, this should go the distance.” 95 points 

Decanter (Emma Dawson MW): “Sweet, honeyed stone fruit aromas with a waxy elegance. It’s very tense and poised on the palate, with a linear focus to the citrus and bright apricot fruit, combining well with a gentle infusion of fresh, peppery vanilla spice. There’s a gentle candied sweetness which adds depth, and the fruit remains fresh and bright to the finish, the vervy acidity promising an age worthy wine.” 95 points 

Vinous: “Bright yellow with a green tinge. Very complex, brisk aromas of grapefruit, lemon zest, stone, honey and wild herbs. Delivers lovely lift in the mouth thanks to its saline minerality, but this is still a baby. A step up in tension and tautness from the preceding '16s, this classic lemony, mineral-driven Pouilly-Fuissé finishes with excellent rising length and a musky suggestion of wet stone. A dense wine with a terrific citrus core and the energy and structure to age. Drink 2020-2027.” 91 points

Customer Comments:

My goodness what a lovely wine!” - Mr. G.C.

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