Saumur Blanc 'Les Fontenelles', Domaine Melaric, Loire 2014

Saumur Blanc 'Les Fontenelles', Domaine Melaric, Loire 2014.jpg
Saumur Blanc 'Les Fontenelles', Domaine Melaric, Loire 2014.jpg

Saumur Blanc 'Les Fontenelles', Domaine Melaric, Loire 2014

27.95

If you thought Heisenberg's Uncertainty Principle was complicated, then try buying a Chenin Blanc from the Loire. Schroedinger's Cat might be a better analogy, because with many Loire Chenin Blancs, such as Vouvray or Savennieres, you have no idea if the wine is dry or sweet until you open the bottle, so the wine is both sweet and dry at the same time, like Schroedinger's poor old cat. Thankfully, Saumur Blanc from the Loire is a little easier, because it's always dry, unless stated otherwise.

This stunner, made from organically-farmed grapes, is a super-charged expression, awash with ripe orchard fruits, quince, ginger, honey and white flowers. It's one of the most intense expressions of Chenin Blanc that we have tasted in a long time, with an abundance of fruit counterpoised by a thrilling acidity, as one finds in the most daring Rieslings from the Mosel and a limestone minerality imparted by the chalky soil. Drink this with rich seafood dishes or hard cheeses. 12.5% alc. Wild yeast. Barrel-aged. Organic. Low sulphur. Drink now-2021.

Jamie Goode (The Wine Anorak): "They started making this cuvée with this vintage from rented vines. Beautifully reductive. Fresh, spicy and intense with a touch of matchstick. Citrus, pear and limes with nice weight and some mineral character." 94/100

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