Barolo Bussia ‘Dardi Le Rose’, Poderi Colla 2013

Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose Poderi Colla.jpg
Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose Poderi Colla.jpg
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Barolo Bussia ‘Dardi Le Rose’, Poderi Colla 2013

39.50

This very special Barolo comes from an 8 hectare, single vineyard called ‘Dardi Le Rose’ on the Bussia hillside in Monforte d’Alba – an area long regarded as one of the best for the production of full-bodied, age-worthy Barolo. Poderi Colla is a relatively new estate in Barolo terms (established in 1993), yet their history runs deeper (see below) and their tiny production Baroli are already at the top of many an aficionado’s wish-list and cause much hair-pulling and teeth-baring amongst merchants prepared to fight for an allocation and never more so than in the celebrated 2013 vintage. We tasted it last week and thought it was truly fabulous, the full palette of Barolo aroma and flavour spread out across a huge canvas, and we proceeded to strike fear into the hearts of any other merchants trying to encroach on our allocation (it’s amazing how scary a neckerchief waved in anger can be!).

Antonio Galloni: “Colla's 2013 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose is a knock-out. Intensely sweet and perfumed, the 2013 reminds me of some of the most profound Barolos and Barbarescos I have tasted. Ripe red cherry, pipe tobacco, mint, dried rose petal, orange peel and anise are some of the endless nuances that seem to develop in the glass. The 2013 is a wine of depth, pedigree and class. It should provide thrilling drinking for a number of years. This is a regal wine in every way. Don't miss it! Drink 2023-2043.” 96 points

JancisRobinson.com: "Monforte d’Alba. Bright cherry red. Vegy nose. Very fragrant, lifted, with great balance and charm. Dry end. Super-charming. Drink 2023-2038.” 17.5 points

James Suckling: “Here is a Barolo with extremely perfumed aromas with spice, leather and dried flowers. Hints of dried fruits such as fig and cherry. Full body yet linear and racy with lots of berry, mushroom and orange peel character. Drink now or hold.” 95 points

“I was deeply impressed with the three vintages of the flagship Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose I tasted. The 2013 leads the pack, but the 2012 and 2011 are also superb, especially within the context of their respective vintages. Readers in search of a top-flight, traditionally-styled Barolo will find much to explore in these very fine, noble wines from the Colla family." – Antonio Galloni

A potted history of the Collo family

Poderi Colla is a new winery (1993) by Barolo standards, but the family is as influential in shaping the history of the region as any. Tino’s oldest borther Beppe, born in 1930, is 19 years Tino’s senior (as much a father figure to Tino as a sibling) and a Barolo legend. Beppe was one of the founding fathers of the laws of production in the Alba region in the 1960s, the Alba DOCs. He was also the first winemaker to bottle a cru (single vineyard) Barolo in 1961, at his winery Prunotto, by vinifying his vineyards separately and including the place-name (for example, Bussia) on his labels. At the time people thought he was crazy. Barolo was all about blending different vineyards. But then, little by little, people started to follow Prunotto…

Beppe furthermore had the unimaginable ‘coraggio’ to petition his neighbours to make quality-conscious wine – thin crops, reduce yields – at a time when people were hoping to stretch a loaf of bread the whole week. Imagine, at this time, a very poor region, trying to rebuild itself with a wine scene that was all but devoid of any commercial emphasis. But Beppe was a true visionary and always played the long game. Those ageless Prunotto bottles from the 1960s, some of the greatest Nebbiolo ever made, propelled the winery into relative superstardom.

When Beppe sold Prunotto in the early 1990s, he knew every square inch of Barolo and chose to keep the choicest parcels of the winery’s holdings for himself before passing the torch to his younger brother Tino and Beppe’s daughter Frederica, who established Poderi Colla (literally, the Colla farms) in 1993. Beppe remained on as a consultant and now, 23 years later the wines are some of the region’s most highly-regarded Barolos.

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