Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 'Abstraction #1', Philippe Guérin, Loire, France 2018

Muscadet bottle.jpg
Muscadet bottle.jpg

Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 'Abstraction #1', Philippe Guérin, Loire, France 2018

12.95

“Philippe Guerin produces some of the most profound Muscadet I’ve ever tasted.” - Richard Kelley MW

We discovered this wine at a huge trade tasting, where the chit-chat was cacophonous and the wines were a noisy mish-mash of mixed triumphs and failures. It was a bit of an assault on the senses, but when we tasted this wine, it felt like switching from Radio 1 to Classic FM. It was the liquid equivalent of the Brahms Violin Concerto in D Major. In fact, we highly recommend you drink this Muscadet while listening to it, because it evokes all the soothing elegance of that great piece (his only concerto for violin).

Muscadet is having something of a renaissance right now, particularly among the zeitgeisty sommeliers, and that momentum will only gain further strength with the release of the 2018 vintage, which is considered to be the best harvest since 1989 (although those with very long memories say 1947). The cellars are full of exceptionally ripe, dry, mineral wines that rival the best whites from further down river (Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Savennieres), but at a fraction of the price.

This crystalline example from Philippe Guérin is a lip-smacking palate cleanser, packed with zesty, pure, unoaked fruit. The pithy grapefruit notes are balanced by sweeter impressions of white grape and green melon and the High C of acidity that pierces through the whole brings a wonderful tensile quality to the palate. It’s the classic pairing for oysters, but you won’t go wrong with any raw fish or crustacean dishes either. 13% alc. Drink now-2022.

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