Malbec 'La Viminière', Chateau Fleur Haut Gaussens Bordeaux Supérieur, France 2016

Malbec La Vimniere Haut Gaussens.jpg
Malbec La Vimniere Haut Gaussens.jpg

Malbec 'La Viminière', Chateau Fleur Haut Gaussens Bordeaux Supérieur, France 2016

£21.95

“This is a hedonistic and decadent Bordeaux Malbec that could challenge a few Mendoza wines in terms of density” - The Wine Advocate

I love Malbec! Or at least I think I do. I’ve definitely liked the ones I’ve liked and I have paid more attention to those than the ones I haven’t liked, which I tend to forget about. Fans of ‘confirmation bias’ will be keenly aware of the tendency here. We ratify our beliefs by noticing the occurrences where those beliefs are upheld, while paying less attention to the times when they aren’t. So, now that I think about it, I’m not sure that I do like Malbec, because the supporting data isn’t great. I do fondly remember a bottle shared with friends of the Achaval-Ferrer Malbec 2014, but I’ve worked my way through every Malbec at my local Argentine steakhouse and they’ve all been pretty lousy. So, is Malbec the Radiohead of wines? You think you like Radiohead, you want to be a groovy Radiohead-liker, you even learned the chords to Fake Plastic Trees, but then you play a whole album and you realise, oh no, you don’t really like Radiohead.

The fact remains, however, that I still want to like Radiohead and I still want to like Malbec. So, imagine my delight when I poured this inky Malbec into my glass and it tasted like I was hearing Karma Police for the first time. There was none of the discordant brashness of a young Malbec, as this is from the exceptional 2016 vintage in Bordeaux ("the best Bordeaux vintage I will probably ever taste" - Jancis Robinson MW; “an incredible vintage” - The Wine Advocate), so it has had 5 years to mellow and integrate, becoming something compellingly serious now. If you enjoy a full-bodied red with sleek, blackcurranty acidity to give it lustre and sheen, then this belongs in your wine rack.

It’s bursting with opulent cassis and sweet black cherries, combining the sort of heady ripeness you might find in an Argentine Malbec, with the sleek, cool, upright quality that you can expect from Bordeaux. It is sourced from a tiny plot that barely covers 2 hectares and was aged for 5 months in new French and American oak barrels. Drink now-2028

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2016 La Viminière from Fleur Haut Gaussens is a pure Malbec. Opulent and generous on the nose, bilberry jam and blueberry scents storm from the glass as if their life depended upon it. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of sweet black plum laced with blueberry and honey, the acidity keeping everything balanced. This is a hedonistic and decadent Bordeaux Malbec that could challenge a few Mendoza wines in terms of density. Give this a year in bottle and you will have a fine, powerful Malbec. Drink now-2023.”

Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage) “It could easily be mistaken for an Argentine. But it does smell like Bordeaux, even if the colour is almost Mendoza! Very rich and flattering. Velvety texture and perfect for those who like to be enveloped by their wine. Probably not a long-distance runner but massively delivers pleasure.”

Customer Comments:

“Loved it!” - Mr. D.A.

“The Malbec is terrific.” - Mr S.T.

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