It strikes us as odd that wine merchants take champagne so seriously when it's a drink that is all about celebrating. The context in which it finds itself is usually one filled with joy and laughter, not introspective chin-stroking, but wine merchants, in particular, feel the need to treat it with solemn reverence and technical minutiae about blending proportions, liqueur de tirage and disgorgement dates. I doubt Lewis Hamilton licks his lips on the podium and wonders what the dosage is.

This Crémant du Jura is an excellent alternative to celebrating with Champagne and it comes from the Jura’s largest and oldest co-operative. It’s a joyful burst of apple pie, brioche, pineapple turnover and shortbread with some citrus bite and a little chalky note on the finish. Whilst the base of this cuvée is 100% Chardonnay, the wine is given a different dimension with the inspired addition of a tiny percentage of Vin Jaune prior to bottling. Drink now-2024.

Press review:

Jancis Robinson: "Very fresh with some baked apple on the nose. Rich, ripe lemon and apple on the palate and finishes nicely dry. Definitely one of the better crémants tasted today – ripe fruit but excellent balancing freshness. A tiny note of biscuity autolytic character but this is not the focus. Good Value. Drink now." 16.5 points