“Truly Burgundian… a hint of Puligny here.” - Jancis Robinson MW

It’s all about perspective. Rudy Kurniawan sold wines to the international fine wine market that appeared to be Grand Cru white Burgundy, but weren’t, and he received a 10 year jail sentence. Kumeu River sell wines to the international fine wine market that appear to be Grand Cru white Burgundy, but aren’t, and they get universal praise from the wine critics.

You could easily pour their Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2021 from a decanter instead of a Chevalier-Montrachet and your dinner guests will be none the wiser. In fact, they might even prefer it. It’s opulent and savoury and flecked with minerals and has all the poise and persistence that you would expect from a top white Burgundy. It’s drinking beautifully now, but there’s nothing to suggest that it won’t still be alive and kicking in a decade’s time. 14% alc. Drink 2024-2036.

Press review:

Vinous: “Possibly the most complete Hunting Hill Chardonnay I’ve tasted in youth, the 2020 provides a harmonious, melt-in-your-mouth impression. It has breadth and concentration, but retains a sense of elegance on the mid-palate before finishing with precision and length. Yes, there’s a little bit of flint character too, but then Hunting Hill is known to be reductive; give it time. Like Forrest Gump, it runs through a finish line and keeps on going effortlessly. There’s no box of chocolates here though, it’s all white nectarine, citrus, white flowers and a touch f smoked nuts. Drink now-2035.” 95 points

Jancis Robinson MW: “‘Really nervy nose. Truly Burgundian, if one is allowed to say this. Great fruit and great tension. Just the job and amazingly vibrant and persistent on the finish. You could drink this already but it will clearly last really well – though winemaker Michael Brajkovich is consistently cautious with his suggested drinking windows; 'will improve with bottle age for four to six years'. A hint of Puligny here. Drink 2025-2028.” 17++ points