It's hard to imagine a more passionate winemaker than Rafael Palacios and that is stated in the full knowledge that passionate winemakers are aren’t exactly in short supply. And by passion, I don’t mean the sort of histrionic, arm-waving braggadocio of Bruno Tonioni after a triple espresso, I mean genuine devotion and commitment to the land they toil and the grapes they grow. When we visited he didn't just want to show us the vineyards, he didn't just want us to feel the soil in our hands, he wanted us to smell the soil. Cupping the dry earth in his hands like a religious offering, he encouraged us to inhale and “breathe in the terroir”.

He loves this precious plot in Valdeorras and you can see why, it's one of the most spectacular regions in Spain, with terraced vineyards tumbling down to the river below and to enhance the experience we were treated to a glass of this delightful Godello in situ with some grilled octopus cooked on the spot by the local fisherman, Señor Pulpo (Mr Octopus). It's hard not to be seduced by an experience like that and overrate a wine, but we try to keep our objectivity switched on at all times and if there’s anything negative to be said about this wine, it would be that it's not the most complex, it doesn’t offer a long list of ingredients from the fruit bowl and the baking cupboard, but what it lacks in layers it makes up for in its amazing energy and precision and mineral-inflected purity (‘vertical’ is the latest buzzword for wines like this), with lime and quince flavours, a touch of hay, a drizzle of fresh cream and a light nuttiness from the lees-ageing in barrel. It’s a great alternative to the sort of dinner party white wine you would normally place on a white linen tablecloth, and should be enjoyed while it's young and vibrant like a chiselled Chablis or a white Burgundy. 14% alc. Drink now-2027.

Organic/ biodynamic farming.

Customer comments (including previous vintages):

“Last night I tried a bottle of the Louro do Bolo with some halibut – absolutely delicious.” - Mr B.M.

“Just wanted to say that we had one of these tonight and it was absolutely stunning. I had a 2017 As Sortes last year, and this was right up there with it.” - Mr. M.W.

”The Louro Godello was excellent. Greatly enjoyed it.” - Mr. C.A.

“The wine is really delicious .” - Mr. R.S.

“Just to let you know how delicious this wine is. We’re enjoying every sip!” - Mrs B.S.

”Love this wine.” - Mr. D.A.

”We have really enjoyed it” - Mrs S.T.