I went to see a well-known stand-up comedian recently. He had earned his reputation in the 1990s, selling out big venues up and down the country. Sadly, for those who came to see him on this occasion, he turned up inebriated, shuffled about muttering incoherent nonsense, played the piano badly and wandered off stage, beer in hand. It was bitterly disappointing as well as frustrating. The people sitting next to me had paid for train fares, entry tickets, drinks and a babysitter and were visibly upset. It made me think of white Burgundy.

There are so many white Burgundies that trade on the promise of reputation and underdeliver. Too many producers stick a well-known name like Pouilly-Fuissé, Meursault or Dylan Moran on a label and expect people to turn up and pay for a promise that they rarely deliver. It drives us crazy, so when we put an expensive white Burgundy on our website, you can be sure that you are in for a treat and you’ll give the babysitter a tip, because you were having so much fun that you lost track of the time.

This Saint Romain is a vaudeville show, it’s Chardonnay doing the Can-Can, it’s Carmen Miranda’s hat. There is so much going on that you don’t know which way to taste. Fabulous aromas and flavours of grapefruit and lime, brown toast and honey, nuts and marmalade, it’s like a cruise liner’s breakfast buffet during a storm, it’s like a man who has run out of similes. Geez, I should be a comedian. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.