“Wonderful.” - Neal Martin, Vinous

Fresh-faced winemaker, Sam Lambson, is one of an exciting band of young guns carrying South Africa’s ‘New Wave’ flag into a bright and beautiful future. It’s a revolution that started in the Swartland, but has now spread to all areas, in this case, the rugged coastal region of Elim, only a few miles from the most southerly tip of Africa (which isn’t the romantically-named ‘Cape of Good Hope’, but the more clunky-sounding Cape Agulhas).

This is only the fourth vintage of this cult Syrah. Sam’s debut vintage was picked out by Jancis Robinson as one of her highlights at the most recent ‘SA New Wave’ tasting in London, describing it as “a dead ringer for a Côte Rôtie”, and it sold out within hours. It’s certainly modelled on the Northern Rhone with its 100% whole-bunch fermentation, giving classic aromas of blueberry and pepper, but there’s a South African flavour too, with smoked biltong and rooibos tea infusing the blackcurrant fruit with local colour. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2035.

Press review:

Vinous: “The 2021 Syrah Stars in the Dark comes from two parcels, one on clay t. Drink now-2038he other on Koffieklip soil, matured for 10 months in neutral 228 and 300 litre oak barrels. Winemaker, Sam Lambson, told me he is seeking to express the rotundone element of the variety, essentially the ‘peppery’ element. It certainly comes across here with lovely red berry fruit, white pepper, fennel and thyme. It’s quite understated with a degree of transparency. That theme follows through on the palate, that is beautifully balanced with fine tannins, elegant red fruit mixed with thyme and black olive, the latter imparting a salinity that begs you back for another sip. Wonderful. Drink now-2038.“ 94 points