"How can a wine this serious be this much fun?" - Tamlyn Currin, for JancisRobinson.com

When Barbera is on song, it's one of the most glorious of Italian wines, a full-bodied, lustrous red with naturally high acidity counterpoised by plush, rich, brambly fruit, but the problem for Barbera's image and reputation is that very few winemakers manage to get that balance right. Aldo Conterno and his 3 sons have been working with Barbera since 1969 and have, to put no finer point on it, nailed it. I don't think I've ever described a wine as 'posh' before, but their 'Conca Tre Pile' 2020 gives that impression; it has the feel of royal purple velvet, with its plush, autumnal fruits, a sprinkle of spice (posh spice, of course) and high-toned notes of frankincense, kola and purple flowers. 14.5% alc. Drink now-2036

Press review:

Jamie Goode: “Rich bold warm and spicy. Dense and ripe with a lovely spicy, rounded personality with a sour cherry finish.” 92 points

Jancis Robinson MW: “Very lively and fresh without any excess. Just nicely balanced and fun to drink. What more does one want?” 16.5 points