'Volcanic' & Island Wines

“Terre Nere’s Etna Bianco is one of the best values coming out of Sicily today.”- Eric Guido, Vinous

“Terre Nere is one of the star producers in Etna.”- Jamie Goode

This delectable white from the northern slopes of Mount Etna gently evokes its volcanic origins without taking you on the full white-knuckle ride that some of the more dramatic examples can do. It is bright and chic, with subtle, smoky, crumbled stone notes set beautifully against pithy citrus fruits, mandarin, grapefruit, wild flowers and blanched almonds. It has the cool precision of a maritime wine with its flavours coaxed along by a refreshingly tangy acidity, a chalky mineral mouthfeel and a lovely salted nuttiness on the finish. It is a blend of Carricante (70%) with the other 30% made up from indigenous Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico and Minnella grapes from 20-60 year old vines grown at 600-900 metres. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2028.

Organic (certified)

Press review:

Vinous: “A whiff of lemon oil mixes with sweet mint and crushed rocks as the 2024 Etna Bianco opens in the glass. This is juicy and playful in feel with ripe melon and a cascade of inner florals that swirl throughout. It leaves a salty sensation and nuances of candied citrus on the wickedly fresh finish. Drink now-2027” 92 points

Customer comments:

“Just love the Etna Bianco” - Mr T.K.

“Delicious!” - Mr. J.C.

“Love the Sicilian white from Terre Nere by the way” - Mr T.B.

Be prepared that this wine makes no attempt to ingratiate itself into polite society, it arrives brushing dust off its shoulders and kicking volcanic soil off its boots. It comes from the southwest side of Mount Etna, and is made from unoaked Carricante, which takes its natural citrus fruit flavours (the skin and the pith and all), and mixes them with salty sea air and rocky, earthy minerals to produce a wine of unmistakeable local character. A wine that can handle bold flavours, so try it with chicken couscous, barbecued eel (“fantastic” according to Jancis Robinson) or any dish that typically demands a squeeze of lemon. 12% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Decanter (previous vintage): “Expressive and robust, showing powerful elegance and great textural appeal, this is a Carricante that balances classicism and modernity. Green apple, quince, and white grapefruit at the core with an elegant top layer of lemon balm, white roses and linden. Very long on the palate with focus and a delicious chalky grip that makes it linger on the palate. Lingering notes of grapefruit pith, preserved lemon and pear peel.” 93 points

“There's ample complexity here, especially for the price.” - Vinous

“Lovely wine.” - Decanter

The Tenuta Tascante 2024 Etna Bianco ‘Buonora’ is a pure Carricante from the ‘Contrada Feudo’ on the north side of Mount Etna, at 600 metres above sea level, so it gets pretty chilly at night, which is ideal for soliciting extra flavour and aroma from the grapes. The wine shows lots of white-and green-fleshed fruits, some daisy florals and subtle mineral nuances, which plants its flag squarely in the black basalt soil of a living, breathing volcano! Winemaking sees stainless steel only, but with 4 months on the fine lees. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Decanter: “This is a characterful wine and a great introduction to Etna whites. It starts with aromas of ripe stone fruit, pineapple, melon and ripe lemons, with a little hint of crushed rocks too. Then the palate is pretty explosive, with a very fine balance of ripe, silky, honeyed fruit and hard wet stones. The finish is long and stony, with bitter lemon notes. Lovely wine. Drink now-2030.” 93 points

Vinous: “The 2024 Etna Bianco Buonora is a total pleasure to take in, opening with a whiff of sweet smoke and crushed stone, a dusting of confectioner's spice and notes of freshly sliced peach. It's round and playful in style with zesty acidity and crisp orchard fruits that pepper the palate with crunchy tension. Sour citrus puckers the cheeks as a resonance of candied lime lingers on and on. The 2024 aims to please. There's ample complexity here, especially for the price. Drink now-2030.” 91 points

“One of Tenerife's greatest bargains… as good as Domaine Roulot's Bourgogne Blanc.” - Tim Atkin MW, 94 points

If you have been tempted to try a wine from the Canary islands, but were worried it might be a bit “too much”, then give this a try. It’s made from Listan Blanco (better-known as Palomino in mainland Spain) and has just a light touch of volcanic minerality, but not enough to scare the horses. With many of these Atlantic island wines, it feels as if the fruit and the terroir are in a tussle for supremacy and more often than not the terroir wins, whereas here it feels more like a split decision. There is grapefruit and kumquat, but there is salt and broken rocks too. As its volcanic character is quite mild, please be aware that it’s a bit of a gateway drink that could lead to stronger proclivities. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029. Organic/ biodynamically farmed

Press review:

Tim Atkin: “One of Tenerife's greatest bargains, Artífice is a pure Listán Blanco from nine parcels around La Guancha, all facing north between 300 and 700 metres. Mostly barrel fermented, with a 20% concrete component, this has an enticing struck match top note, flavours of pear and waxed lemons and subtle wood spices. As good as Domaine Roulot's Bourgogne Blanc. Drink now-2030.” 94 points

“I’m going to restrain my enthusiasm here and avoid making the outrageous claim that this is the single greatest value in the world of wine right now, but I do feel quite confident that it’s in the top 10 best white wines for the money anywhere. Drinking wines like this feels like discovering buried treasure, and such bottles are certainly a just reward for the curious wine drinker who has to kiss a few frogs before discovering vinous royalty.” - Alder Yarrow for JancisRobinson.com

The 2012 vintage of Trenzado was the very first wine we bought when we set up Vin Cognito at the end of 2014. We took a punt on 120 bottles. Some might say it was a bold opening move for a new company, but we bought it because we loved it and we hoped we could communicate that enthusiasm to all the brave souls who had agreed to climb aboard our bandwagon. We have followed every vintage since then and they have all been great, but the 2024 is something else altogether. It’s the wine that we suspected had always been waiting in the wings, the understudy-turned-diva, and now, with her voice fully warmed up, she is ready to sing.

What’s the fuss all about? Well, imagine how a great Meursault from someone like Jean-Marc Roulot would taste if the vines were planted on the side of a volcano in the Atlantic Ocean, as these are. The aromas are simply mesmerising. So much so that I challenge you not to spend at least five minutes swirling it under your nose before even putting it to your lips. It’s less raucous than previous vintages, it’s more finessed, but still with satisfying richness of flavour and great length. It has the ‘struck flint’ aromas of a white Burgundy, but there’s also a sense of the wild, untamed Atlantic and the brooding presence of Tenerife’s mighty volcano, El Teide, so when you put it all together, you get a thrilling, sea-sprayed shipwreck of yuzu, grapefruit, gunpowder, lemons, pumice, oyster shells and honeysuckle. It shouldn’t work, but it really, really does. The aromas linger like wispy gunsmoke after a naval skirmish, but they give space for the other flavours to shine too, allowing for a wonderful combination of sweet citrus fruit, saline freshness and granitic minerality. If pirates could make wine, it would taste like this. 12.5% alc. Listan Blanco (95%), but with a dash of Torrontes. Drink now-2030. Organic (non-certified) Vegan-friendly

Tenerife
Tenerife, situated off the north African coast, is the largest of the Canary Islands and is dominated by the massive volcano, El Teide, the highest point in Spain and one of the world’s largest volcanic structures at 12,000 feet above sea level (24,000 feet above the ocean floor!). It protects the south of the island from Atlantic squalls, but it’s on the cooler, northern part of the island, in the green valley of La Orotava, that Suertes del Marques is based. Their vineyards climb the lower slopes of El Teide, between 1,000 and 2,000 feet above sea level, and the vines are planted on their original rootstock, as phylloxera never reached Tenerife, so some of their vines are nearly 150 years old. The unusual training system of braiding the vines, known as el cordon trenzado, gives its name to the wine.

Winemaking
Winemaker, Jonatan Garcia, pursues a strictly hands-off philosophy, flirting with natural wine ideologies and following some biodynamic practices, without going full ‘moon child’. Minimal sulphur dioxide is used (those matchstick aromas come from the soil), fermentations are initiated by wild yeasts, and the wine is never filtered or fined. Most of the grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats, but a smaller portion are fermented with their skins in concrete tanks. The wine is then aged for 8 months in concrete and large, old, French oak casks. The naturally low yields from those gnarly old vines confer great intensity of flavour while still retaining acidity and freshness, so the wines have terrific vibrancy and energy.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “Smells volcanic-smoky and refreshingly and attractively sour-fruited rather than sweet-fruited. The smoky notes of reduction, an indirect effect of the volcanic soils, which stress the vines, are less marked in this vintage, explained Jonatan Garcia Lima, because there were no heatwaves. No struck-match here. In the mouth this is captivating. As well as the smoky impression there’s an intensity of green fruits and grapefruit. Dry and lightly chalky. Super crisp and yet gently rounded on the finish. Tight but not lean, smoky but not so much as to obscure the lovely pithy fruit. Distinctive and distinguished. It may well age longer than this but I haven’t tasted examples with a lot of bottle age – and why wait when it’s delicious now. Drink now-2029.” 17 points and ‘Wine of the Week’


Customer comments (including previous vintage):

“Couldn’t wait, so we’ve just polished one off and I’m devastated. Because that means we only have 5 left. Could I order another dozen, please?” - Mr R.E.

“The Trenzado must be one of my favourite wines!” - Mr R.L.

“Wow! That sassy smokiness and brisk salinity work so well – seriously impressive.” - Mr. T.P.

“I think it's delicious. Great food wine - almonds, or bbq fish... Good to try something different!” - Mr H.A.

“Tried the Trenzado last night and have to say it wasn’t really for me.” - Mr B.O. [you can’t win ‘em all!]

”It’s absolutely terrific!” - Mr. P.C.

“We had a quick wine tasting yesterday and it went down really well.” - Ms. S.H.

Such a thrilling, dry white wine (just in case you thought all Madeira was sweet), sourced from Verdelho vines on the north side of the island, very close to the ocean and it positively pinballs across the palate with yuzu, grated lime peel, struck flint, matchstick and salty margarita notes. It’s a wine that pings with energy, unmistakeably an island wine, with a breezy Atlantic freshness and, although it’s only 12% alcohol, it has surprising weight and length. If I were forced to compare it to another wine, I’d say it sits somewhere between Didier Dagueneau’s ‘Silex’ and a Listan Blanco from Tenerife. I bet that was helpful. It was fermented and aged on its lees in barrel (although a portion was raised in stainless steel to retain Verdelho’s natural brightness). Drink now-2032.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “This has a reductive profile with notes of flint and some spicy and smoky hints (they had some new barrels in 2023). It has 12% alcohol and high acidity (around eight grams) after full malolactic and is sharp, chalky, tasty, saline, pungent and dry. It should age nicely in bottle. 1,500 bottles produced. Drink now-2036.” 95 points

“This now plays in the major league.” - The Wine Advocate, 98+ points

This extraordinary wine lives on the edge in so many ways: on the edge of Europe, on the edge of an Ocean, on the edge of a volcano and on the edge of balance (it teases your palate with its crisp acidity, but pulls back from the edge, bringing succulence just in the nick of time).

It’s made from 100 year-old Listan Blanco vines from the village of Palo Blanco, regarded as the best site in Tenerife for white wines, and it transmits the character of the soil and the weather and the maritime climate as eloquently as the ink of a good travel writer. The wine is mineral, zesty, saline and chiselled, packed with citrus, yet rendered complex and fascinating by the substrate of minerals that underpin it. A lemon-flavoured hand-grenade! It’s made to be enjoyed, but it's not going to change its nature to please you. Love it for what it is, and what it is is fabulous! 11.5% alc. Vegan-friendly. Drink now-2030.

Organic farming
Vegan-friendly

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The grapes for the 2023 Palo Blanco were harvested earlier than ever, picked even earlier than the grapes from Taganana. It was a warm year, but the wine feels more like it's from a cool climate; it has a moderate 11.5% alcohol and is volcanic and less reductive than in previous years, fine-boned and sharp, with a vibrant palate, effervescent acidity and a dry chalkiness that gives it salinity. It's approachable but should also age in bottle. Drink now-2030.” 98+ points

You could get into a barrel, fill it with lemons, rocks, gunpowder, grapefruit peel and oyster shells and get someone to roll you down the side of a volcano, but that's not my idea of a barrel of laughs and you get a very similar experience drinking this wine and far fewer abrasions. It's a pure, unfiltered Listan Blanco-dominated blend from the black, volcanic soils of Lanzarote and if you are familiar with our amazing 'Trenzado' from Tenerife, then you will recognise many similar characteristics, in particular that combination of struck flint, ocean breeze and intense citrus. I've probably scared away those who prefer their white wines to be understated and demure, but why not take walk through your discomfort zone and see what you think. 12.5% alc. Roughly half of the production was aged in 300 litre French oak and the rest in stainless steel. Drink now-2028.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: “Pablo Matallana is part of an exciting new generation of winemakers on Lanzarote, all of them working with traditional vineyards that are buried in holes to protect them from the Atlantic winds. This low-intervention blend of equal parts Listán Blanco, Malvasía Volcánica and Diego comes from centenary parcels in Juan Bello and Masdache and is appealingly salty and savoury, with layers of jasmine, blood orange and hot stones and a hint of black tea tannins. Drink now-2029.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate: “The 2022 Blanco was produced with grapes from Lanzarote with a blend of Malvasía, Listán Blanco and more Diego than in previous vintages. It's characterful, spicy, marine and mysterious, with a pale golden color and notes of sea breeze, aromatic herbs and flowers, and it has a dry and pungent palate with a stony feeling and a salty twist. It has a moderate 12.5% alcohol and 7.5 grams of acidity. The grapes come from old vines planted in holes on volcanic ash soils from Masdache, La Florida and Juan Bello. The juice from the full clusters fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, and 80% of the wine matured in used 300-litre barrels while the rest matured in stainless steel. 1,200 bottles were filled in July 2023.” 92 points

Tameran is a new project started in 2019 by the great footballer and Canary Islands native, David Silva (ex-Manchester City). David got in touch with Jonathan García (owner and winemaker at Suertes del Marques) while he was based in Manchester, after enjoying one of his wines in a restaurant [I bet it was the Trenzado!]. They formed a friendship and as David is a wine enthusiast, discussed the possibility of a project together. When an estate on Gran Canaria, which included six hectares of native vineyards, came up for sale, David asked Jonathan to come on-board as viticulturalist and winemaker and the rest is history!

Press review:

Decanter: “Beautifully buttered, Burgundian nose: toasted almond, orange rind, ripe peach, jackfruit, petrichor and camomile. A sea-shell hint, too. Rich but intensely savoury with super acid on a stunning, aerial palate. This is first vintage since Jonatan adjusted the pruning in order to harvest earlier, before the intense August heat (Vigariego Blanco is a relatively long-cycle grape). It now has acidity to keep the wine going for a decade or more. Served last in a tasting of the 2024 whites as the highlight. Drink now-2036.” 96 points

This is a hugely exciting wine by any standards, although it's probably not a wine for learner drinkers or those who still have their stabilisers on, because it's from rocky terrain. Old vineyards on a volcano in the Atlantic Ocean are unlikely to produce a wine you can ignore and this mesmerisingly complex and delicious wine is undeniably informed by its rocky, salty, maritime birthplace.  It's as thrilling to our tastebuds as any of the great white Burgundies, which can express their origins with similar eloquence, and it shares some of the struck flint and insistent fruit of the very best. Even if you don't think it's one of the most exciting wines you have ever tasted, as we do, you'll be amazed by its sense of drama. Clay soils at 350-450 m. Listan Blanco vines of 100+ years old on volcanic and basaltic soils. Fermented in used 500-litre barrels, with 11 months on lees. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2036.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “This is so refreshing and so vivid in its flavours and sense of place that one sip delivers you to a rocky volcanic outcrop overlooking the Atlantic, the scent of the sea, of herbal scruff, of sun-warmed stone infusing every breath. It’s full-bodied and expansive even while the acidity keeps it tight and vivacious; the fruit is juicy but savoury, complemented by a raw-almond richness. And it is even better on day two. Drink now-2036.” 18.5 points and Gold Medal & Chairman’s Award in the ‘Volcanic WIne Awards 2026’

We met up recently with winemaker, Daniel Niepoort, and he recounted how, when he started working at the family domaine in 2020, he was told that they were thrilled to have him on board, representing the 6th generation of the family, but only on the condition that he didn’t make any new wines, because the Niepoort portfolio was already bursting at the seams. On his first holiday, he went to see a friend in the Azores and returned two weeks later with the news that he had agreed to make a new wine and here is the result!

This ultra-volcanic white, from windswept, walled vineyards on Pico Island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, opens with zesty lime, sour nectarine and white talc on the nose, while the palate reveals a vibrant mix of citrus and stone fruits, layered with salt flakes, white flowers, star anise and a subtle nuttiness. A profoundly 'mineral' wine with great complexity. 12% alc. 40% Terrantez do Pico 30% Arinto dos Azores and 30% Verdelho. Drink now-2030.

NB If you haven’t seen the incredible walled vineyards of Pico Island, do please Google ‘Pico Island Vines’ and marvel at what is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “I tasted the bottled 2023 DO Pico that I tasted unbottled last year. The wine has settled and is showing quite well: the reduction has disappeared and the wine is clean, precise and chiseled. It was produced with grapes from another zone, San Mateus, and not from Tito's vineyards. In the south of the island, the vineyards are very close to the mountains, and the ripeness is more contained. The grapes ripen later, the sugar is lower and the acidity is higher. 2023 was a rainy year in the south of Pico, with more problems for Verdelho and Terrantez, but the grapes were picked earlier, and the wines are fresher. The Arinto balances things with a little more volume and mid-palate. It has contained ripeness and 12% alcohol (as stated on the label), a fresh and vibrant palate with stony minerality and a marine sensation in the finish. Drink now-2032.“ 93+ points

One of the most beautiful ‘non-Burgundy’ white wines we have ever tasted. Absolutely stunning and worth every single penny. Sourced from estate vineyards, all very old and trained in braided cordons. Spontaneous fermentation in 500-litre barrels, where it stays for 11 months. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2036.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “This is mouth-watering in its combination of bright, palate-whetting acidity and broad, savoury flavours, but it’s also deeply reduced, the smoky, nutty, flinty aspect pointing the wine in a Burgundian direction. While it’s absolutely elegant, impressive and delicious, I see now (after the tasting) that this scored slightly lower than its non-VP counterpart as I and the tableful of wine geeks tasting this wine wanted less Burgundy and more Valle de la Orotava. Which may come with time - it’s a good bet. Drink now-2036.” 18 points

A beautifully aromatic Nerello Mascalese sourced from pre-phylloxera vines on the slopes of Mount Etna, fermented with wild yeasts and aged for 6 months in French oak barrels. The combination of the altitude (2,000 feet above sea level) and the rich, mineral soil, give the wine extraordinary aromatic lift, almost exotic, suggesting chopped red cherries, peach fuzz and whetstone, while the palate is as buoyant and fresh, as the somewhat pale colour suggests it will be, but there's real fascination and depth in there too, as you might find in a ripe Nebbiolo or a richly-scented Pinot Noir. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Biodynamic farming.

Customer comments (including previous vintage):

“All the hype about this wine is more than deserved..... absolutely stunning!” - Mr. R. H.

“As always, thank you for spotting the wine - another absolute banger, which blew away the conventional Burgundy we had at the same meal.” - Mr. R.E.

”That Etna Rosso is absolutely amazing. Thanks so much for the recommendation” - Mr. A.D.

“Loving it (too much!). Would be happy to take two more cases if you have them.” - Mr. I. W.

”I much enjoyed your Etna Rosso last night – it was lighter than I expected but very smooth and delicious." - Mr. A.M.

"Like drinking liquid silk, really light and cherry-scented but with that dark, basalt thing going on too. Ethereal and magnificent. Love it." - Mr. J.W.

"I did just cracked open a bottle of Ciauria and it is excellent!" - Mr T.J.

"I thought the Ciauria was really lovely! Great find." - Mr. J.L.

"It's incredible! I've never had anything like it." - Mr. G.D.

"Tried the Etna Rosso last night and it was delicious!" - Mr. J.F.

"You can tell from the repeat order that the Ciauria has gone down very well. Looking forward to receiving the order, looking forward to drinking it more." - Mr. G.S.

“Terre Nere continues to raise the bar with their Etna Rosso.” - Vinous

A delicious and characterful Nerello Mascalese from the northern slopes of Mount Etna, which articulates its origins as eloquently as a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon or a Northern Rhone Syrah articulate theirs. The aromas are classic Etna Rosso, a heady cocktail of shiny red fruits, peach fuzz, raspberry and pumice stone. That volcanic minerality brings a slight tannic austerity to the fruit and a suggestion of smooth grey pebbles, but it’s not drying, because the fruit is ample, so you sense the pit as well as the cherry, the stone as well as the plum. 14% alc. Drink now-2030.

Organic (certified)

Press review:

Vinous (previous vintage): “The 2023 Etna Rosso seduces with a burst of ripe cherries, cloves and sweet rose aromas. This is an energetic and wickedly fresh effort with a cascade of wild berry fruit and crunchy mineral tones that flow beneath an air of violet inner florals. A coating of fine tannins frames the finish without slowing its momentum as this tapers off with amazing length and a saturation of raspberry. The 2023 aims to please. Drink now-2029” 92 points

The Artifice Tinto 2022 is made from Listan Negro and has everything you could desire from a Tenerife red, evoking wild cherry, pomegranate, strawberry and burnt orange peel. It’s only medium-bodied and fairly dainty for a red wine, with a tender core of sweet red cherry and raspberry fruit, similar in its flavour DNA to a Pinot Noir, but with intriguing background hints of smolten rock and the iron forge.

It’s the sort of wine I would love to be served at a groovy wine-bar like Sager and Wilde or The Remedy, either on its own or with food, or on my own or with company, because even if I’m on my own, it’s bound to pique the curiosity of my fellow drinkers and I probably won’t be drinking alone for long. 12% alc. Organic farming. 10 months in oak. Drink now-2029.

Organic farming

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate (previous vintage): “The 2021 Artífice Tinto follows the path of 2018, with concrete, foudre and barrels, part of stems and a fresh and more Atlantic character. It has a moderate 12% alcohol but is still juicy and gentle, with its medium-bodied palate and fine-grained texture, floral and always peppery with volcanic echoes. Drink now-2028.” 93+ points

Decanter (previous vintage): “Inheriting the family estate in 2011, former racing car mechanic Borja Pérez opted to make his own wine rather than sell off his grapes locally – a crucial decision that led to him becoming one of the best viticulturists in the Canary Islands, sourcing old-vine fruit from small growers locally. His Artifice Tinto is a definitive expression of the Listán Negro grape grown on the Tenerife’s volcanic soils. Floral and dark fruit notes. Full-bodied, with a line of fresh orange acidity. Ultimately there’s a citrus freshness, and a long, concentrated finish." 95 points

Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage): “Very stinky nose - too much for me!” 14.5 points [i.e. it’s not to everyone’s taste!]

Customer comments:

“The Tenerife wine is delicious!” - Mr A.R.

Everything we love in a red wine: aromatic lift, juicy moreishness, terroir expression, varietal identity and bags of personality. It is made from our favourite Sicilian grape variety, Nerello Mascalese, which is a thin-skinned black grape, producing pale-coloured wines, similar in depth and weight to a Pinot Noir, and capable of translating the rocky minerality that comes from vines growing on the side of a volcano. Take a moment to savour the extraordinary aromas of apricot, jasmine, cherry and frankincense, which lead you to a seriously fine and elegant palate of red stone-fruits and cool pebbles. It's a very digestible, food-friendly wine with high acidity and a refreshing purity that leads you to demand another sip. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2028 (conservatively).

Biodynamic farming

Customer comments (including previous vintage):

“It’s like Gina Lollobrigida just kissed me on the lips and I’m currently lost for words… Genuinely think this is my favourite wine of the year.” - Mr. B.F.

"Feels like a perfect summer red. We really enjoyed it." - Mr. J.S.

"I love this wine, it's become my new fav!" - Ms. C.H.

“I opened one of the Guardoilvento last night. Delicious. Still great freshness but just the right amount of development too.” - Mr. T.V.

”We thought the Etna Rosso was sensational.” - Mr. M. H.

“A wine that strums my heartstrings.” - Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com

This is a terrific wine from Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere, who, in 2006, was offered two small parcels on Mount Etna in the crus of Feudo di Mezzo and Moganazzi, which were too small to blend into Terre Nerre’s cuvees, and so this project was born, named after his daughter, Eli, whose crayon drawings have adorned the labels ever since, changing each year as she grows up. It has the gorgeous aromas that we look for in proper Etna Rosso, with that telltale note of peach fuzz and apricot skin, as well as dried cherries and whetstone, plumped up on the palate by sweeter flavours of pomegranate and wild strawberry. 13% alc. 12 months on 20% new oak. Drink now-2027.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “Licking terracotta tiles on a hot summer day after a thunderstorm; eating small red cherries fallen onto an old, crumbling stone wall; pomegranate seeds crushed between rough concrete. Transparent as stained glass, rugged as weathered brick. Incense and under-log earthy; crushed radicchio and soft triangles and columbine-scented five-pointed stars of flavour of earth and flower and root and fruit and stone. A wine that strums my heartstrings… (TC). Drink now-2027.“ 17.5 points

Customer comment:

“I have popped the Etna Rosso La Vigne di Eli and have to say it’s lovely, light, refreshing and invigorating in equal measure, and your tasting note is absolutely spot on.” - Mr A.H.

This is about as pale as a red wine gets before it geta put on the rosé shelf! It’s made from the Tinta Negra grape, grown on the island of Madeira and is not a wine for fans of punchy, full-bodied reds, it’s all about delicacy and subtle expression, but there is room for both in the world of wine, just as there is room for oil painting and watercolour in the world of art. It has gentle notes of cherry blossom, wild strawberries, pink grapefruit and dried flowers, with a palate that is fresh and sweetly succulent with a wispy smokiness that refers back to its volcanic soils. 10% alc. 40-year-old vines. 30% whole bunch. Aged 8 months in used French oak barrels. Drink now-2034.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “We did a vertical from 2021 to 2024 to see the evolution of the red, and the 2024 Tinta Negra dos Villões is the palest and most perfumed, very different from the others, with lower alcohol (only 10%) and very high malic acid (but it's not very lactic). It has notes of acid berries, wet basalt, black pepper, dry roses, a touch of soy sauce and a smoky twist, with a light- to medium-bodied palate and unnoticeable tannins. It's a variety from the family of Bastardo and Alfrocheiro. All vintages were different, and to me this is the finest one. Drink now-2030.” 93 points

JancisRobinson.com: “Light crimson colour and invitingly sweet-red-fruited: sultry and seductive alcoholic strawberries, a hint of smoke and stone dust to dampen any excess fruit sweetness, vibrant with red cherry. The tannins are perfectly matched to the tart but generous fruit: smooth, rounded and building to a firmer grip on the finish. Relatively gentle but sufficient. I am not aware of the stems (ie the effect of the whole bunch is subtle) but they bring a slightly woody/herbal note, which also counteracts the potential fruit sweetness. Taut, zesty, with intense freshness but also a sour-fresh bitter-cherry and red-fruit sweetness on the finish. Very long and layered. It feels like a tightrope walk between red-fruited seduction and a tensile framework of acidity and tannins.” 17.5 points

An absolute stunner from the guys at Envinate! Just the right amount of wispy volcanic smokiness on the nose to draw you in, but not so much that it occludes the fruit, which jumps out of the glass with juicy vibrancy, packed with shiny black cherry, raspberry, blueberry, blackcurrant and pomegranate laced with whetstone, pumice powder and pepper (that’s the volcano talking!). One of our favourite releases from these brilliant winemakers. A field blend of Negramoll and Listán Negro. Very old vines. 12% alc. Drink now-2030.

Organic (non-certified)
Vegan

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2022 La Santa de Úrsula is balsamic and reveals notes of rose petals and talcum powder. The fruit is darker (riper), and it has a juicy palate with fine tannins and a long, lingering finish. Drink now - 2029.” 95 points

Customer comments:

“A belter.” - Mr. M.A.

A lot of winemakers look like the place they come from, whether it’s the pin-striped châtelains of Bordeaux or the rustic farmers of the Swartland, and Corrado Maurigi looks as windswept as the volcanic sites he oversees on Mount Etna, his wiry, grey hair looking like a dehydrated bush that has been whipped by storms and his wild eyes sparkling like the Mediterranean below. He guided us through his latest releases and we fell hook, line and sinker for this one, a pure Nerello Mascalese from the contrada ‘Sciaranuova' on the northern face of the volcano, where the soil is black from two separate lava flows, one dating from about 4,000 years ago and the other from about 40,000 years ago.

One of the amazing things about the reds from Etna is how featherlight and delicate they are despite the radical place they come from and this example is pale and haunting, with filigree tannins and dainty flavours of red cherry, blood orange, damask rose and struck flint. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “The Tenuta Tascante 2019 Etna Rosso Contrada Sciaranuova offers a unique set of aromas over a beautiful, luminous and shiny appearance. The volcanic character of the wine is on full display, and you sense campfire ash, flint, iron ore and wild rose. Sciaranuova is slightly darker (compared to the Contrada Pianodario, but only by a hair), and the aromas veer to the mineral side of the equation. There is also more structure and grit in terms of mouthfeel, which will accompany this wine over its aging trajectory. Drink now-2038.” 95+ points

Decanter: “Located on the northern slopes of Etna, between the hamlets of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro at around 730 metres, Sciaranuova is a 4.6-hectare vineyard surrounded by chestnut groves. Its black soil is the result of a very old lava flow. The wine is matured mostly in 25 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks, with a small portion in 300 litre French oak tonneaux, for 12 months. Intense and concentrated, it combines creamy, tangy red fruits with vivacious freshness and tension.” 93 points

This was our favourite red wine at Vinateros, the ‘new wave’ Spanish trade tasting that takes place in London every 2 years. It’s made from the Baboso Negro grape grown on the western side of Tenerife in the trips-off-the-tongue appellation of Ycoden-Daute-Isora. As you would expect, it has a subtle, volcanic smokiness to it, as well as a peppery character, but there’s so much more to it than spice and mineral accents. It’s taut, nervy and focused on the palate, offering zesty red berry and violet flavours, but the fruit is succulent and sweet and fills the mouth with floral cherry and pomegranate and a little nutty oak, finishing on a tender note that evokes some of the best wines from Beaujolais or the Jura. Exceptional!

Technical data: Baboso Negro from a single vineyard called La Vizacondesa. 20-year-old ungrafted vines planted on clay-loamy soils. 30% of the grapes are whole-bunch fermented without crushing. Cold maceration for 48 hours followed by stainless-steel fermentation.. After pressing, the wine is racked into used 600-litre French oak casks. Barrel maturation lasts 12 months and the wine is not stabilised or filtered.

Organic farming

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “As with the rest of the wines, I tasted two vintages of this red, so I also sampled the 2017 Ignios Orígenes Baboso Negro, which matured in a 1,500-litre oak foudre (and one barrique), so the rate at which the wine takes oxygen during the élevage was very different from the 2016. This felt much younger, and it had a creamy twist that was probably added by the new oak in which it was aged. It has plenty of fine-grained tannins that might require a little more time in bottle. Drink now-2024.” 93 points

“Their finest effort to date.” -The Wine Advocate, 100 points

This comes from one of the most dramatic vineyards in Tenerife, clinging to a cliff face on the north-east corner of the island. The wine itself is quite pale, like rosehip cordial. So fresh, so pure, so elegant, so Tenerife! The fruit is beautifully pared down, as if reduced to its bare essence. Thinly sliced strawberries, watermelon, rose petals and cold embers. Elegance… from a volcano!

A blend of Listán Negro, Baboso Negro, Negramoll, Vijariego, and 10% of white varieties such as Malvasía. Red basalt soils of volcanic origin. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation with ambient yeasts in open vats using 100% of the stems. Daily punching down, and malolactic conversion in neutral French oak barrels of 500 litres. Aged in the same barrels for 11 months on its lees, without any racking. Simple really. Only 1,800 bottles produced. Organic farming.12% alc. Vegan-friendly. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “2021 was a cooler year, like 2016 and 2018, and they did longer macerations. The grapes were healthy, they got a little higher yield and it was all easy. The 2021 Táganan Parcela Margalagua is young and long, very balanced, complex and elegant, peppery, spicy and floral, with iron-like notes, raw meat and a salty twist on the finish. The wine is long and expansive. This was their finest effort to date, with a superb 2023 produced later at a similar level. Drink now-2034.” 100 points

EXTREMELY LIMITED. MAXIMUM 3 BOTTLES PER CUSTOMER. NOT AVAILABLE ON ITS OWN, MUST BE PART OF AN ORDER THAT MEETS OUR MINIMUM REQUIREMENT OF 6 BOTTLES. UK MAINLAND ONLY.

There are very few wines that have such a strong sense of place as volcanic wines and this one takes you right to the rim of the crater. It’s there in the aromas of crushed basalt and whetstone amidst sweet red cherry, strawberry, orange peel and something glossy that reminds me of an old-vine Morgon from one of the new-wave Beaujolais producers. Only a few bottles have made their way to the UK and we suggest that adventurous wine drinkers snap them up asap.

This is a single-vineyard cuvée made from Negramoll on the slopes (‘Ladera’ means slope) of the San Antonio volcano in the south. It has a slightly deeper colour than Vicki’s other reds, which tend to be notably pale. It fermented with full clusters and matured in oa single 600-litre oak barrel. The grapes see a lot of sun, because of the exposition, but somehow the wine has a freshness that sings in this vintage (the first release since 2018, mainly due to drought). 13.5% alc. Drink now-2034. Organic farming.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “A red that was only produced in 2018 and the rest of the years went to the cuvée of Negramoll comes back as the 2022 Ladera. It's from the slopes (hence the name) of the Volcán San Antonio in the south. It has a deeper color than most of the other reds from the year. It fermented with full clusters and matured in a 600-liter oak barrel. It has a very spicy nose with pungent notes of cloves. The grapes get a lot of sun, because of the exposition on lapilli volcanic ash soils, but somehow the wine has an herbal side that suggests freshness. Drink now-2028.” 94 points