We could write paragraphs pointing to the fact that the Assyrtiko grape is now considered one of the ‘noble’ white varieties alongside the likes of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, but the market has a shorthand way of indicating that the word is already spreading by the fact that it has gone up from €0.60 per kilo to €3.00 per kilo in the last 2 years alone. Gaia’s ‘Wild Ferment’ is one of the finest expressions that we know, a wine with the most extraordinary aromas, thanks to the fact that Gaia source grapes for this cuvée from the upland vineyard of Pyrgos, considered to produce the most aromatic Assyrtiko on Santorini and the fact that each barrel undergoes a wild ferment, meaning that every barrel is slightly different depending on the particular yeast strain that initiates the fermentation, not to mention the fact that the wine is aged in stainless steel, French oak, American oak (some new, some used) and acacia barrels. It’s an astonishingly complex, intense, rich, bone dry and refined white wine that perfectly balances varietal expression with winemaking influence and the salty lemon identity of Assyrtiko from Santorini really shines through. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2034.

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “The Gai'a Wines 2025 Santorini Assyrtiko ‘Wild Ferment’ is built on the idea that complexity comes from fermentation rather than oak or extraction. Made from very old ungrafted vines rooted in Santorini's pumice-rich volcanic soils, the wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation with a diverse population of indigenous yeasts before aging in a combination of stainless steel, French oak, American oak, acacia and ceramic vessels. The result is a plush, pithy and texturally rich expression of Assyrtiko with aromas of chamomile, stone fruit and paraffin. Although the wine shows more breadth and complexity than the estate's classic bottlings, it remains firmly anchored by the grape's naturally low pH and mineral backbone. This is a multifaceted wine that demonstrates how carefully managed wild fermentations can add layers of character. Drink now-2038.” 94 points

Decanter (previous vintage): “Fermentation is in 45% stainless steel, 45% wood (equal parts French and American oak and acacia) and 10% clay. Fruit from the Pyrgos area typically gives a more aromatic character than other local vineyards. Alluring Mediterranean aromas of honey, pine nut, peach blossom and a powerfully spicy-saline volcanic thread, the merest wisp of smoke. When you sip this wine you enter a delicious dimension of richly textured minerally intrigue. Citrus refreshment framed with dried oregano and immense presence balanced between flavour and mouthfeel. World-class in stature, and while it tastes great in the first three years of bottling, in my experience it unfurls further magnificent layers of complexity over a decade of careful cellaring.” 95 points

Jamie Goode (previous vintage): "This is a remarkable wine with powerful, mineral lime curd and salty lemon rind fruit. It has amazing texture and a bit of structure, too, with a real saline intensity. Youthful and tight, with great concentration of flavour, this oozes minerality. There’s a lot of fruit, but it’s not really about the fruit at all. Quite profound." 95 points

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “The aroma is not straightforward Assyrtiko thanks to the winemaking and ageing choices. There’s no lack of head-clearing, piercing and stony citrus freshness but there’s also an inviting creaminess and many layers, the merest hint of vanilla. On the palate, electrifying tension and salty intensity. Like sticking your finger in a socket with the power switched on. But it’s balanced, intense and long. And has a lovely dusty/mineral quality and very little sign of the oak/acacia except in a rounded creaminess on the finish and a little bit of oak spice and oatmeal – extremely subtle – as it opens in the glass. Long and very salty on the finish, and yet there is an unexpected lingering creaminess and light vanilla sweetness (even if the wine is dry) long after the wine has been swallowed. Terrific intensity becomes even more evident on the day after opening.” 17.5 points