I’m looking for…
Gaia 'Wild Ferment' Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece 2025
Gaia 'Wild Ferment' Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece 2025
We could write paragraphs pointing to the fact that the Assyrtiko grape is now considered one of the ‘noble’ white varieties alongside the likes of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, but the market has a shorthand way of indicating that the word is already spreading by the fact that it has gone up from €0.60 per kilo to €3.00 per kilo in the last 2 years alone. Gaia’s ‘Wild Ferment’ is one of the finest expressions that we know, a wine with the most extraordinary aromas, thanks to the fact that Gaia source grapes for this cuvée from the upland vineyard of Pyrgos, considered to produce the most aromatic Assyrtiko on Santorini and the fact that each barrel undergoes a wild ferment, meaning that every barrel is slightly different depending on the particular yeast strain that initiates the fermentation, not to mention the fact that the wine is aged in stainless steel, French oak, American oak (some new, some used) and acacia barrels. It’s an astonishingly complex, intense, rich, bone dry and refined white wine that perfectly balances varietal expression with winemaking influence and the salty lemon identity of Assyrtiko from Santorini really shines through. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2034.
Press reviews:
The Wine Advocate: “The Gai'a Wines 2025 Santorini Assyrtiko ‘Wild Ferment’ is built on the idea that complexity comes from fermentation rather than oak or extraction. Made from very old ungrafted vines rooted in Santorini's pumice-rich volcanic soils, the wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation with a diverse population of indigenous yeasts before aging in a combination of stainless steel, French oak, American oak, acacia and ceramic vessels. The result is a plush, pithy and texturally rich expression of Assyrtiko with aromas of chamomile, stone fruit and paraffin. Although the wine shows more breadth and complexity than the estate's classic bottlings, it remains firmly anchored by the grape's naturally low pH and mineral backbone. This is a multifaceted wine that demonstrates how carefully managed wild fermentations can add layers of character. Drink now-2038.” 94 points
Decanter (previous vintage): “Fermentation is in 45% stainless steel, 45% wood (equal parts French and American oak and acacia) and 10% clay. Fruit from the Pyrgos area typically gives a more aromatic character than other local vineyards. Alluring Mediterranean aromas of honey, pine nut, peach blossom and a powerfully spicy-saline volcanic thread, the merest wisp of smoke. When you sip this wine you enter a delicious dimension of richly textured minerally intrigue. Citrus refreshment framed with dried oregano and immense presence balanced between flavour and mouthfeel. World-class in stature, and while it tastes great in the first three years of bottling, in my experience it unfurls further magnificent layers of complexity over a decade of careful cellaring.” 95 points
Jamie Goode (previous vintage): "This is a remarkable wine with powerful, mineral lime curd and salty lemon rind fruit. It has amazing texture and a bit of structure, too, with a real saline intensity. Youthful and tight, with great concentration of flavour, this oozes minerality. There’s a lot of fruit, but it’s not really about the fruit at all. Quite profound." 95 points
JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “The aroma is not straightforward Assyrtiko thanks to the winemaking and ageing choices. There’s no lack of head-clearing, piercing and stony citrus freshness but there’s also an inviting creaminess and many layers, the merest hint of vanilla. On the palate, electrifying tension and salty intensity. Like sticking your finger in a socket with the power switched on. But it’s balanced, intense and long. And has a lovely dusty/mineral quality and very little sign of the oak/acacia except in a rounded creaminess on the finish and a little bit of oak spice and oatmeal – extremely subtle – as it opens in the glass. Long and very salty on the finish, and yet there is an unexpected lingering creaminess and light vanilla sweetness (even if the wine is dry) long after the wine has been swallowed. Terrific intensity becomes even more evident on the day after opening.” 17.5 points
You might also like…
“One of South America’s greatest whites.” - Tim Atkin MW, 98 points
Semillon is such a fantastic grape variety, contributing to some of the world’s finest wines without getting the credit it deserves, whether in the sweet wines of Sauternes, the exquisite dry whites of Bordeaux, the age-worthy wines from the Hunter Valley or cult New World expressions from producers like Boekenhoutskloof and Riccitelli.
Matias Riccitelli has crafted a stunning wine from the 2023 harvest of these gnarly, old, ungrafted Semillon. Aromas of waxy lemons and green melon skin, cut grass and whetstone lead to a palate that is deep and complex, with lanolin, wild honey, lime peel and fresh dough cut through by wonderfully tangy acidity and a touch of salinity that puts one in mind of a Cretan Assyrtiko. This is Riccitelli’s best vintage yet and is a wine that belongs at the very top table with some of the finest white wines in the world. 12% alc. Fermented with native yeasts in French oak foudres. Drink now-2032.
Press review:
Tim Atkin MW “Volumes are small at just 4,000 bottles, alas, but this is one of South America’s greatest whites. Sourced from vines planted in Allen in the 1970s, this is a layered, effortlessly complex delight, combining aromas of honeysuckle, fresh hay and wet stones, citrus and pear flavours, subtle wood spices and a tapering finish. Still affordable, given the quality, at $60. Drink now-2035.” 98 points
JancisRobinson.com: “Very layered aromas of yellow pear and quince, wax, honey and parchment. It continues to unfold with air. Great depth and concentration on the palate, and there’s a slight tannic grip that adds to the texture. Fuller-bodied than most Hunter Valley Semillon. Brisk acidity helps tie everything together. It’s already fabulous but should age very well. Drink now-2034.” 17.5+ points
Customer comments:
“The wine went down a storm!” - Ms. R.L.
“Terre Nere’s Etna Bianco is one of the best values coming out of Sicily today.”- Eric Guido, Vinous
“Terre Nere is one of the star producers in Etna.”- Jamie Goode
This delectable white from the northern slopes of Mount Etna gently evokes its volcanic origins without taking you on the full white-knuckle ride that some of the more dramatic examples can do. It is bright and chic, with subtle, smoky, crumbled stone notes set beautifully against pithy citrus fruits, mandarin, grapefruit, wild flowers and blanched almonds. It has the cool precision of a maritime wine with its flavours coaxed along by a refreshingly tangy acidity, a chalky mineral mouthfeel and a lovely salted nuttiness on the finish. It is a blend of Carricante (70%) with the other 30% made up from indigenous Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico and Minnella grapes from 20-60 year old vines grown at 600-900 metres. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2028. Organic (certified)
Press review:
Vinous: “A whiff of lemon oil mixes with sweet mint and crushed rocks as the 2024 Etna Bianco opens in the glass. This is juicy and playful in feel with ripe melon and a cascade of inner florals that swirl throughout. It leaves a salty sensation and nuances of candied citrus on the wickedly fresh finish. Drink now-2027” 92 points
Customer comments:
“Just love the Etna Bianco” - Mr T.K.
“Delicious!” - Mr. J.C.
“Love the Sicilian white from Terre Nere by the way” - Mr T.B.
“This now plays in the major league.” - The Wine Advocate, 98+ points
This extraordinary wine lives on the edge in so many ways: on the edge of Europe, on the edge of an Ocean, on the edge of a volcano and on the edge of balance (it teases your palate with its crisp acidity, but pulls back from the edge, bringing succulence just in the nick of time).
It’s made from 100 year-old Listan Blanco vines from the village of Palo Blanco, regarded as the best site in Tenerife for white wines, and it transmits the character of the soil and the weather and the maritime climate as eloquently as the ink of a good travel writer. The wine is mineral, zesty, saline and chiselled, packed with citrus, yet rendered complex and fascinating by the substrate of minerals that underpin it. A lemon-flavoured hand-grenade! It’s made to be enjoyed, but it's not going to change its nature to please you. Love it for what it is, and what it is is fabulous! 11.5% alc. Organic farming. Vegan-friendly. Drink now-2030.
Press review:
The Wine Advocate: “The grapes for the 2023 Palo Blanco were harvested earlier than ever, picked even earlier than the grapes from Taganana. It was a warm year, but the wine feels more like it's from a cool climate; it has a moderate 11.5% alcohol and is volcanic and less reductive than in previous years, fine-boned and sharp, with a vibrant palate, effervescent acidity and a dry chalkiness that gives it salinity. It's approachable but should also age in bottle. Drink now-2030.” 98+ points