Be prepared that this wine makes no attempt to ingratiate itself into polite society, it arrives brushing dust off its shoulders and kicking volcanic soil off its boots. It comes from the southwest side of Mount Etna, and is made from unoaked Carricante, which takes its natural citrus fruit flavours (the skin and the pith and all), and mixes them with salty sea air and rocky, earthy minerals to produce a wine of unmistakeable local character. A wine that can handle bold flavours, so try it with chicken couscous, barbecued eel (“fantastic” according to Jancis Robinson) or any dish that typically demands a squeeze of lemon. 12% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Decanter (previous vintage): “Expressive and robust, showing powerful elegance and great textural appeal, this is a Carricante that balances classicism and modernity. Green apple, quince, and white grapefruit at the core with an elegant top layer of lemon balm, white roses and linden. Very long on the palate with focus and a delicious chalky grip that makes it linger on the palate. Lingering notes of grapefruit pith, preserved lemon and pear peel.” 93 points