There are very few wines that have such a strong sense of place as volcanic wines and this one takes you right to the rim of the crater. It’s there in the aromas of crushed basalt and whetstone amidst sweet red cherry, strawberry, orange peel and something glossy that reminds me of an old-vine Morgon from one of the new wave Beaujolais producers. Only a few bottles have made their way to the UK and we suggest that adventurous wine drinkers snap them up asap.

This is a single-vineyard cuvée made from Negramoll on the slopes (‘Ladera’ means slope) of the San Antonio volcano in the south. It has a slightly deeper colour than Vicki’s other reds, which are notably pale. It fermented with full clusters and matured in one 600-litre oak barrel. The grapes see a lot of sun, because of the exposition, but somehow the wine has a freshness that sings in this vintage (the first release since 2018, mainly due to drought). 13.5% alc. Drink now-2034. Organic farming.