The ‘Violet Hour’ is a term that was coined by the essayist, Bernard DeVoto, to describe the period of transition from day to evening and the pleasures to be found in coming together for drinks (not to be confused with the ‘Violent Hour’, which comes shortly after closing time at Wetherspoons). I find it very evocative, a moment of impending change, from light to dark, bittersweet with promise and passing.

There’s a bittersweet quality to this Shiraz too, with its lustrous blackcurrant perfume and its darker notes of tobacco and cocoa nibs. On the palate, inky black cherry and damson are held in a supple, medium-bodied texture, with surprisingly light tannins and a mineral tension that keeps the wine vivid and succulent, more attuned to the northern Rhone than archetypal Ozzie Shiraz. Enjoy it during the hours when day slides gently into night, whatever they call that. 14% alc. Sourced from the ‘Rayner’ vineyard, planted in 1947 (named in the ‘Top 50 Vineyards in Australia’). Aged for 10 months in seasoned oak. Drink now-2036.

Press review:

The Wine Companion: “The value here has always been super keen. That’s as true as ever with this iteration from a cool year, typically lifted and fragrant but also with some serious import. A tick up from mid-weight, this is spicy and peppered ferruginous minerality, along with blackberry, dark cherries, tapenade, violet, cassia, bay, coffee bean and salted liquorice. Red berries swell up on the palate, with a thoughtfully woven skein of tannins underwriting its class. Excellent." 96 points

Bondar in a nutshell:
‘Winemaker of the Year 2024’ - Halliday’s Wine Companion (finalist)
Takes over the famous McLaren Vale ‘Rayner Vineyard’ planted in 1947
‘Young Gun of the Year 2020’ – Halliday’s Wine Companion (finalist)
Assistant winemaker at Alain Graillot in the Northern Rhone

Previous vintages reviewed by Halliday’s Wine Companion:
2022 vintage – 95 points: “This is a tremendous bargain.”
2021 vintage – 97 points: “Bargain bonanza.”
2020 vintage – 97 points: “One of the great bargains.”

Customer comments:

“A bottle opened this evening of the Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz. My years in the fine wine trade lead to only one comment: good juice. Perhaps even an exclamation mark thrown in. Certainly worth £25, if not 30 smackers.” - Mr P.E.

“Tried this last night. Remarkable how packed with fruits and flavours yet delivered with a light touch and freshness. My friends and I loved it and wish I’d ordered a full case. So please put me down on your list next time you get any!” - Mr J.G