Bondar 'Violet Hour' Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia 2023
Bondar 'Violet Hour' Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia 2023
"This is the violet hour, the hour of hush and wonder, when the affections grow again and valour is reborn, when the shadows deepen magically along the edge of the forest and we believe that, if we watch carefully, at any moment we may see the unicorn." - Bernard DeVoto, ‘The Hour’
The ‘Violet Hour’ is a term that was coined by the essayist, Bernard DeVoto, to describe the period of transition from day to evening and the pleasures to be found in coming together for drinks (not to be confused with the ‘Violent Hour’, which comes shortly after closing time at Wetherspoons). I find it very evocative, a moment of impending change, from light to dark, bittersweet with promise and passing.
There’s a bittersweet quality to this Shiraz too, with Its lustrous blackcurrant perfume and its darker notes of tobacco and cocoa nibs. On the palate, inky black cherry and damson are held in a supple, medium-bodied texture, with surprisingly light tannins and a mineral tension that keeps the wine vivid and succulent, more attuned to the northern Rhone than archetypal Ozzie Shiraz. Enjoy it during the hours when day slides gently into night, whatever they call that. 14% alc. Sourced from the ‘Rayner’ vineyard, planted in 1947 (named in the ‘Top 50 Vineyards in Australia’). Aged for 10 months in seasoned oak. Drink now-2034.
Press review:
The Wine Companion: “The value here has always been super keen. That’s as true as ever with this iteration from a cool year, typically lifted and fragrant but also with some serious import. A tick up from mid-weight, this is spicy and peppered ferruginous minerality, along with blackberry, dark cherries, tapenade, violet, cassia, bay, coffee bean and salted liquorice. Red berries swell up on the palate, with a thoughtfully woven skein of tannins underwriting its class. Excellent. 14% alc." 96 points