I like the unassuming label on this Pinot Noir, which gives off a sense of quiet confidence, as well it might. because it was made by Henri Jayer’s great-nephew, Guillaume Rouget. If that doesn’t send a tingle down your spine, then I should probably explain: Henri Jayer is considered by many to be the most influential winemaker of the 20th century, not only in Burgundy, but on the world stage. He revolutionised viticulture, especially in Vosne-Romanée, and was known for his uncompromising obsession with quality, his commitment to extremely low yields and his innovative winemaking techniques. His wines are now collector's items and fetch record prices at auction. His last vintage was produced in 2001 and after his passing in 2006, the estate was left to his two daughters, but neither showed much interest in making wine, so when it came up for sale, it was offered to family members first, as per Napoleonic Law, and was bought by Jayer’s nephew, Emmanuel Rouget, who revitalised the domaine, and whose son, Guiillaume, became head-winemaker in 2023. So, this is the first time that any wine has emerged from that legendary cellar in over 25 years and it is a historic moment for all Burgundy-lovers. We have tiny quantities available and expect it to disappear quickly once the word gets out, but for now, let’s keep it to ourselves.

The wine itself is lovely; very elegant in terms of palate weight and fruit concentration, measured against expertly-judged barrel-ageing, which imparts some fine cherrywood and cedar notes. It has the violet and raspberry-tinged qualities typical of a young Burgundy, but there are deeper, more resounding flavours in abeyance, waiting to slowly unfurl. 13% alc. Drink now-2034.