Silk and taffeta are not textures one normally associates with the red wines of the Languedoc; the wines tend to be rougher-hewn, evoking the gnarly old vines from which the grapes are sourced, but when it comes to the more elevated Pic St Loup (so high that my ears popped as I drove up to Clos Marie’s winery), there’s an unexpected elegance and finesse to the wines, due in no small part to the aspirations of their talented winemaker, Christophe Peyrus. The Cuvee ‘Olivette’ is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, but made in an atypically supple and charming style, with hints of sweet red fruits intermingling with floral aromatics and jewel bright acidity. Whole bunch fermentation brings freshness to what can often be an intimidating blend of grapes when grown on the plains below, so the style is actually more Northern Rhone, certainly in its aromatics. A real beauty, but sadly in very short supply. Snap up the last few bottles while you can, you won’t be disappointed. 14% alc. Drink now-2032.