You only have to look at the deep, rich colour to know that old vines were involved here, yet despite the inky hue, it’s a wine with remarkable lift and perfume. The grape variety is Côt - the local name for Malbec - and the 50 year-old vines have enriched the wine with boysenberry and cassis flavours, which, I admit, might just be implied by the visual impression, but there are also grace notes of apricot and lychee, not remotely suggested by the wine’s colour, proving that I am not completely suggestible! 13% alc. Drink now-2040.