“Giornata did a fantastic job with the 2022 Sangiovese.” - Vinous, 94 points

If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then Biondi-Santi should be blushing, because this wine does an amazing impersonation of their Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, especially as it’s not even from Italy. It’s a pure Sangiovese from Paso Robles, roughly halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, an area where Italian grape varieties are being planted with increasingly exciting results and this wine stood out from those we have tasted. It’s utterly delicious.

It has real depth of flavour, but the high tones are where the fun begins, with beautifully perfumed Italianate aromas - a heady mix of cherries, blood orange, fresh bark, tangerine peel, warm terracotta and a hint of sarsaparilla root to give it a local twist. Bring out your best glasses and a decanter if you have one. Close your eyes and breathe in. It will remind you of a hedonistic Brunello before you have even put the glass to your lips. The palate is rich with sweetly ripe tannins, yet driven along by the most perfectly balanced acidity, once again, reminiscent of those wonderful Tuscan reds that go so well with the local cuisine. I have a glass next to me as I’m writing this and I keep going back to it, as it develops in the glass, and I really can’t believe it’s from California! 14% alc. Aged for 12 months in Italian botte (huge wooden casks made of Slavonian chestnut), then a further 10 months in neutral oak. Drink now-2040.

Press reviews:

Vinous: “The 2022 Sangiovese is intense, showing a balsamic tinge up front that gives way to crushed cherries and cedar tones. Silky smooth, it offers masses of ripe red berry fruit and depths of minerals and spice. Slightly chewy, yet exceptionally long, the finish delivers a tart cranberry twang. Despite being a darker and more concentrated effort, Giornata did a fantastic job with the 2022 Sangiovese. Drink now-2030.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate (previous vintage): “The Sangiovese has a medium ruby colour and classic aromas of red and black cherries, soy sauce, iron, burnt orange peel, tobacco and loads of amaro-like accents. The medium-bodied palate has a concentrated core of cherry fruit and loads of spicy accents supported by abundant, dusty tannins and fireworks of fresh acidity, and it finishes long and detailed. Lovely! Pair it with hearty tomato-based dishes or tuck it away for another 3-5 years.” 96 points

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Smells of cherries, herbs and incense. Wonderfully juicy and bright flavours of cherry, citrus peel and dried herbs are wrapped in a fleecy blanket of tannins that turns quickly muscular as the tannins stiffen and notes of fresh chopped herbs linger with citrus peel in the finish. Excellent acidity. Give this a couple of years before opening and you’ll be rewarded.” 17 points