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Lukas van Loggerenberg ‘Graft’ Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, South Africa 2022
Lukas van Loggerenberg ‘Graft’ Syrah, Polkadraai Hills, South Africa 2022
“This might be the finest wine that I have tasted from Lukas Van Loggerenberg.” - Neal Martin, 97 points
“World class.” - Tim Atkin MW, 96 points
When Chris Alheit introduces a new winemaker, who he says is one to look out for, then people necessarily sit up and take notice. That was what happened when Chris contacted his old friend and UK importer, Richard Kelley, with an email that simply said “Richard meet Lukas, Lukas meet Richard”. Richard caught the next plane out to The Cape and the rest is history. Within a few years, Lukas has become synonymous with South Africa’s ‘New Wave’ and both wine merchants and wine drinkers now have to fight for an allocation.
His ‘Graft’ Syrah from the Polkadraai Hills, just outside Stellenbosch, is a thing of great beauty, evoking wines like Cote Rotie and Hermitage with purple flower petals in its upper register, black cherry in its middle register and sweet spice in its lower register. It’s wonderfully authentic. There’s a wonderful inner perfume that suffuses the dark, mellifluous fruit, bringing exotic seduction to a grape than can taste monolithic in the wrong hands. It’s 100% whole bunch-fermented, which brings a sappy, juiciness to the wine, and aged for a year in a mix of Italian concrete and old French oak, which softens and sweetens the crunchy young berries. Can be drunk when young, as it has so much fruit, but it has decades ahead of it. 14% alc. Drink now-2042.
Press reviews:
Vinous (Neal Martin): “"The 2022 Graft is pure Syrah from Polkadraai Hills that is matured two-thirds in concrete, the remainder in second-fill barrels. "It's the easiest wine I make because of the quality of the vineyard," Van Loggerenberg mentions. It has a stunning crushed violet petal, mineral-driven bouquet that effortlessly subsumes the 100% whole bunch. The palate is supremely well-balanced and tensile, with touches of pink peppercorn and brine infusing the black fruit, leading to another, almost Cornas-like, pliant finish. This might be the finest wine that I have tasted from Lukas Van Loggerenberg (so far). Drink now-2050.“ 97 points
Greg Sherwood MW: “This pretty Syrah shows a deep broody aromatics with layers of rose water, lavender, violets, red plum, red cherry, and scented talc. The palate shows incredible intensity and fine chalky tannins with a power and precision, or as Lukas says, Cote Rotie meets Polkadraai Hills! A multi-layered, texturally stimulating Syrah that s incredibly perfumed, intense, and quite profound. One of Lukas s most sophisticated wines without doubt.” 97+ points
Tim Atkin MW: “ "A freak of a vineyard", is how Lukas van Loggerenberg describes Karibib, the source of several of the Cape's most exciting Syrahs, including this one. Fermented with whole bunches before ageing in a 70/30 combination of concrete and older barrels, Graft is a violet, lavender and paprika-scented red with a palate of damson, black olive and blackberry, dense, layered tannins and the grip and concentration to age. World class. Drink now-2032.” 96 points
JancisRobinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): “Smells of black pepper and wild strawberries. Intensely peppery but no shortage of super-fresh, resonant fruit. The tannins feel like old parchment, layer upon layer. It really presses into you, delicious concentration on the mid palate but really dancing on the nose and on the finish. Tremendous energy. Drink now-2032.” 17.5 points
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Lukas van Loggerenberg told us that his inspiration for this Cabernet Franc (known in certain areas of the Loire region as ‘Breton’) is Chinon, which gets better and better with age, often still drinking well on its 15th, even its 20th birthday. His 2020 ‘Breton’ Cabernet Franc is a wine that is only at the beginning of its journey, already supple and beautiful, but waiting for the next twist of the kaleidoscope to reveal new dimensions. Enjoy it now for its silky, graphite-laced, black cherry exuberance or wait for the next instalment, which will be equally enthralling I’m sure. It’s a cliffhanger of a wine, but we are certain that you will still be enjoying future episodes 15 years at least from now. If so, we look forward to receiving your thank you note (please address it to the Old Vintners Retirement Home). 13% alc. Drink now-2035.
Press review:
Tim Atkin MW: “This brilliant, stylishly refined Cabernet Franc uses equal amounts of fruit from the Polkadraai Hills and Firgrove. Perfumed and refreshing, it's a South African take on a St Nicolas de Bourgueil, all balance, poise and detail. Taut and granitic with gentle, caressing tannins and silky red berry and black cherry fruit. 2023-29.” 95 points
Lukas Loggerenberg: ‘Young Winemaker of the Year’ - Tim Atkin MW
Fans of northern Rhone Syrah at its plumpest and most opulent best will not want to miss the 2020 vintage of Vincent Paris’s Cornas ‘Granit 60’. It’s delicious now, a furiously dark and dangerous adolescent bursting with youthful energy, but will age beautifully in a cool cellar for at least 15 if not 20 years.
Organic (certified)/ biodynamic farming
Press reviews:
Decanter: “There are herbal depths here, but they're currently filled by the intense, powerful berry fruits. Medium- to full-bodied, this has good concentration and intensity of fruit, coupled with powerful but very ripe tannin. There's good energy here, the wine is upright and not as soft and easy-going as some other Cornas this year. Great vitality and salinity, this is well-balanced, fresh and classically Cornas. A satisfying and energising wine with a long finish. 50-year-old vines on very steep slopes, 70% destemmed. No pigeage, natural yeasts, then spending 16 months in two to eight-year-old barrels. Drink now-2035.” 95 points
JancisRobinson.com: “Subtle. An understated yet concentrated wine with lovely sweetness of fruit, fine tannic structure, integrated oak. All the components here are in fine balance. Dark olives, sweetness of berry fruit. Intriguing mineral and floral finish. Drink now-2032.” 16.5+ points

