Morgon 'La Ballofière' Jean-Paul Dubost, Beaujolais, France 2022
Morgon 'La Ballofière' Jean-Paul Dubost, Beaujolais, France 2022
“I had forgotten just how damn good Dubost's La Ballofière is. It's just drop-dead gorgeous.” - Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com
There’s a magical moment when serious Beaujolais pupates and transforms from chrysalis into butterfly, but like butterflies, it can vary depending on the type of Beaujolais or do I mean butterfly, I’m lost within my own analogy. When young, most ‘Cru’ Beaujolais (i.e. the serious ones, not the fruit juice they release on the third Thursday in November) taste pretty similar, dark and inky and redolent of black cherries and violets, but when the moment comes for it to evolve, it spreads its wings and reveals all the colours it has been concealing.
The Ballofière vineyard sits on an outcrop of granite high up within the Morgon appellation and the warm 2022 vintage has yielded an absolute beauty. It pours a very dark colour, rich in aroma and flavour, deep and mysterious, with purple flowers and black cherries interleafed with vanilla and charcoal dust. A gothic Morgon, purple-draped and heavy on the eyeliner. It is a sleek, intense and structured celebration of Gamay with a gorgeous interplay of fruit complimented by a firm sense of minerality. Burgundy lovers might note a familiar character, a certain musicality in the balance of muscle and refinement. The tannins have a little bit of grip, enough to stand up to red meat, but are drenched in fruit and will soften further with age. In fact, although it’s delicious, it’s only just stepping onto the dancefloor now. The vines here have an average age of 70 years and 30% of the wine was aged in barrel. 13% alc. Drink now-2036.
Organic. Biodynamic.
Press reviews:
JancisRobinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): “I had forgotten just how damn good Dubost's La Ballofière is. It has the kohl-smudge smoky seduction and towering-black-rock power of Morgon. But it also has something generous and gentle and soulful. A deep pool of dark-red and midnight-blue fruit at its core – so deep and still that when you reach it, it's like skimming a pebble across its surface and then hearing the infinite silence as the stone sinks through the sweet, sultry depths of the fruit. Stunningly beautiful tannins with the texture of damask rose petals and gossamer and finest-grade sandpaper. Peony and purple-satin flowers on the finish. It's just drop-dead gorgeous. GV. Drink now-2033.” 17.5 points
Customer Comments:
“That Morgon is the dog’s bollocks. Rich but fresh with amazing complexion of flavours and then that streak of wild side which gives it a fourth dimension. Tempted to get more!” - Mr. W. L.