I found this wine, lured by the smart label, at an Italian wine tasting, sitting in a sad little corner under a banner called ‘Self Pour’, away from the main action and without a winemaker standing behind the table to talk about it. I poured myself a small sample, as per the banner’s instructions, and was immediately attracted the deep, glossy, inky crimson colour and gave it a swirl. If you could encapsulate northern Italy in a single glass, this was it. Gorgeous aromas of hedgerow berries, red-fleshed plums, black ink, polish and cherry skins. The palate has structure, but the tannins are steeped in sweet fruit, so it feels juicy and rich, buoyed by Barbera’s naturally tangy acidity. I love wines that evoke a sense of place and this couldn’t be more Italian if it were drinking a double espresso while throwing its tax return in the bin. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2039. Organic farming.