There’s something pleasingly old-fashioned about this Cabernet Franc, the kind of wine that my dad enjoys, with lively acidity and youthful tannins, perfect for lunch with some duck rillette and jambon de pays. It hasn’t received any reviews as far as we can tell, but I suspect The Wine Advocate would give it 88 points, recognising the quality, but put off by the northern European acidity and the crunchy fruit. It’s full of cassis, blueberry, juniper and wet hedgerow notes; a classic French wine without make-up; a Gallic shrug in vinous form. 13% alc. Drink now-2036.