Tenuta Castellaro, Nero Ossidiana, Lipari Island, Italy 2017
Tenuta Castellaro, Nero Ossidiana, Lipari Island, Italy 2017
“On my list of top discoveries from Italy.” - Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
I don’t know what it is about ‘island wines’, but we can’t seem to get enough of them at the moment. Maybe it’s the individuality that comes from working with indigenous grape varieties or perhaps it’s the winemaking traditions that are the product of working within a geographical echo chamber for centuries, but we love them and this one is an absolute stunner. It comes Lipari, the largest of the Aeolian Islands off the northern coast of Sicily and is a blend of the indigenous Corinto grape (90%) and the more familiar southern workhorse, Nero d’Avola (10%), and has a silky, mouthwatering quality that sets it apart from a lot of southern Italian reds, which can often get bogged down under the weight of their own fruit. It’s aromatically complex and rich in fruit, but its physique is lissome and lithe and it comes in at a pleasing 13% alcohol. If you like Etna Rosso, then you should definitely make some space in your shopping basket for a few bottles of this too. It’s darker in colour and in its fruit profile, but the volcanic soil makes its presence felt in the way the cool minerality reflects the fleshy cherry and plum fruit and the ageing in chestnut barrels just adds a subtle yet delectable hint of toasted almonds and sandalwood. Not to be missed! 13% alc. Drink now-2026.
Press reviews:
The Wine Advocate: “The Tenuta di Castellaro 2017 Nero Ossidiana is a blend of 90% Corinto Nero and 10% Nero d'Avola that opens to a mid-weight texture and a dark garnet color. The bouquet is very elegant and fragrant with a whiff of red roses that makes a nice first impression. That floral preface is followed by fainter tones of cherry and cassis with some iron ore or rusty nail. The fruit is harvested from a three-hectare parcel (at 350 metres in elevation) with very deep sandy volcanic soils that are rich in minerals. What stands out most in this 6,700-bottle production is the delicate and pretty nature of those aromas. Drink now-2025.“ 92 points
Vinous: “The 2017 Nero Ossidiana is dark and animalistic, as wild herbs and hints of musk give way to crushed blackberries and black porous stones. It’s silky and pliant, striking a balance of zesty acids, minerals and tart black fruits that creates a lovely symmetry. A subtle coating of fine tannin lingers, framing the experience well, as this finishes lightly structured and persistent. The Ossidiana is nicely balanced and aims to please. It’s a blend of 90% Corinto Nero and 10% Nero d'Avola. Drink now-2026.“ 91 points