There are certain rules to live by: Never play cards with a guy who has the same first name as a city, never dine at a restaurant with a thin chef and never trust a clean-shaven winemaker. Timo Mayer has one of the best beards in the wine trade, although he still has a long way to go to match Raul Perez or even Adi Badenhorst, but he looks as gnarled as his old vines and that gives a strangely reassuring sense of authenticity.

He makes this beautiful Syrah using whole bunches, i.e. without destemming, which brings a sappy, lifted freshness to the wine, which might otherwise follow the Ozzie norm and become a dark and chewy behemoth. Instead, it feels almost European, not wholly dissimilar to Jamet’s Cote Rotie, with morello cherry, blood plum, wet moss and a peaty hint, finishing with notes of chewing tobacco and white pepper. 13% alc. Drink now-2038.

Press review:

Australian Wine Companion: “Estate-grown fruit, 100% whole bunches and matured in seasoned hogsheads. Is this the best and most consistent wine in the Mayer range? Probably. It’s gorgeous with dark plum skins, black cherry, graphite, white pepper, a touch of freshly ground coffee beans and incense. There's just as much happening on the rich, heady but beautifully balanced palate. It's so, so drinkable now, but know that this will age superbly, too.” 98 points