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Ultreia St Jacques, Raul Perez, Bierzo, Spain 2023
Ultreia St Jacques, Raul Perez, Bierzo, Spain 2023
“Saint Jacques is by far the most important wine I make.”- Raúl Pérez.
An astonishing value Mencia from one of Spain’s most important (and hairy) winemakers, Raúl Pérez. It pours a bright, glossy, crimson colour and the appearance seems to translate into flavour, as the palate evokes shiny purple- and blue-skinned fruits (damsons, blueberries, blackcurrants) with succulent acids, black pepper and a hint of cherry blossom. There’s a seamless feel to the polished fruit and you can really taste the quality of the harvest, which is clearly the winemaker’s intention, as there is no oak flavour. It’s vibrant and beautifully supple with fine-grained tannins and a hint of cool graphite, which elevates the fruit. Raul makes some stunning ‘single vineyard’ expressions of Mencia, which have a bit more structure than this blend from old vineyards on different soils, but if you want to get beneath the skin of a grape, a winemaker and a region, then this is your backstage pass. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.
Organic farming
Press review:
The Wine Advocate: “The 2023 Ultreia Saint Jacques has a lifted nose. In the rainy 2023, they selected from the many plots in different lieux-dits of Valtuille, which this year included El Val and El Cepón in Villafranca, mostly from very old vines, with 50% of the grapes purchased from growers. It fermented mostly with full clusters and had a long maceration and matured in used barrels. It has contained ripeness and less than 13% alcohol. All the 2023 reds from the Ultreia range are very clean. Drink now-2030.” 93+ points
Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage): “Thoroughly satisfying, complex, lifted perfume that already shows some integration even if quite a hit of acidity and a little tannin on the palate. It doesn't have the sweet majesty of Bierzo reds costing many times as much but is clearly an artisanal product from the heavily bearded Pérez. Refreshing and only medium body in terms of impact on the palate. Very Good Value.” 17 points
Customer comments:
“This is an amazing wine.” - Mr. P.D.
”Another case of the Raul Perez Saint Jacques Ultreia if available; it’s brilliant!” - Mr. A.R.
”A hit! Muy, muy bien. Should have had a whole case. Please may I have another 6? - Ms. V. J.
“By the way, the Raul Perez, Ultreia St Jacques was absolutely brilliant for the money.” - Mr M.B.
“Love that Ultreia. I will do another 12!” - Mr. P.N.
”Outstanding!!” - Mr. P. J.
“Very much enjoyed the first bottle last night. Lovely fruit and balance. Slipped down very - too! easily!” - Mr J.G.
”Drank a bottle of the Ultreia St Jacques on weekend. Lovely!” - Mr. D.A.
”This is a damn good wine.” - Mr. D.A.
“I should say I have really enjoyed the Ultreia St Jacques - quite delicious!” - Mr S.C.
”Delicious and superb value.” - Mr. A.T.
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Press review:
Tim Atkin MW: "Textured and nuanced, La del Vivo is a Godello with serious personality. Delicate chamomile and honey aromas lead to ripe apricot and peach syrup with a little bitter almond and a touch of white pepper. It takes time to open up but then reveals a fantastically chalky palate and just a little woody spice from 12 months in large oak vats. Should continue to develop further over the coming years. Drink now-2028." 95 points
The Wine Advocate: “The white 2022 La Vizcaína La del Vivo comes from vines they own, all fermented without temperature control and never racked. It has a serious and austere nose that makes me think of a cooler year. There is good ripeness, and the wine achieved 13.5% alcohol but has very good freshness and acidity. It has notes of white flowers, fruit, spices and herbs and is complex, nuanced and elegant. It has a chalky palate with very fresh and clean flavors. Drink 2022-2032.” 95 points
JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Freshness and predominantly water pear. Very pleasant and consistent style. Lightness, salinity, and all very well placed. It is a wine of finesse that seeks a more mineral expression of Godello, less opulent, playing with softness and delicacy. Great work. Drink now-2028.” 17 points
Customer comments:
“On first opening it may not smack you in the face, but freshness, zip and zing are apparent straight away and different characteristics emerge with each glass. Salinity? Tick. Minerality? Tick. A citrus streak? Tick. Fine mouthfeel? Tick. The structure to age? Tick.” - Mr T.M.
What a delightful expression of Spanish Garnacha! It pours a pale ruby colour, like a vermilion watercolour wash, but it’s not wishy-washy. It’s so perfumed and delicate, like a cross between a young Beaujolais and a Tenerife red, yet with plenty of fruit intensity to give it depth too. Cherry dominates the aromas and the flavours, but there are also hints of orange, pink peppercorn, flint and cool graphite (I’m thinking pencil lead). If you like perky and perfumed grape varieties like Pinot Noir, Gamay, Nerello Mascalese, Païs or Trousseau, then do give this a try, especially with a plate of charcuterie. Can be drunk slightly chilled. 13.5% alc. 7 months in oak. Drink now-2028.
Press review:
Decanter (previous vintage): “This bright, juicy Garnacha Tinta (with 5% Garnacha Blanca) is lovely to serve slightly chilled alongside platters of charcuterie at a picnic. Named after El Garbi, the warm African wind that blows through the vineyard in cool Terra Alta, it's packed with vibrant cherry fruit, dusted with spice. Fresh acidity balances the soft tannins for a crisp finish. Drink now-2027.” 91 points
Featured in Decanter’s ‘Top Red Wines to Chill’ (June 2024).
Customer comments:
“I could drink gallons of this! Beautiful!” - Mr W.B.
"I just tried the Garbi. It is superb. Another gem you and Lucia have unearthed!" - Mr A.D-W.
“Stunning and incredibly priced.” - The Wine Advocate, 95 points
The buzz about the Ribeira Sacra region is only going to get louder when people taste wines like this. The region seems to be spearheading a new direction in Spanish wine towards lighter, fresher, silkier reds with lower alcohol and an appetising dryness that makes them so versatile with food, showing more of an affinity with the textural fragility of Pinot Noir, for example, than the ‘oak soups’ that you often find in modern Rioja or the Ribera del Duero.
This is a fantastic introduction to Spain’s new bearing, which is really gathering pace in the ‘Atlantic’ appellations around Galicia, and I can't recommend it highly enough. The Lousas ‘Vinas de Aldea’ is Envinate's equivalent of a ‘village’ wine, in the Burgundian sense, sourced from 12 different parcels in various sub-regions of the Ribeira Sacra ranging from 20 to 60 years of age and located between 400 and 600 metres altitude on varied soils of slate and granite depending on the location.
The Vinas de Aldea 2023 is predominantly made from Mencia, with a few local varieties thrown in for good measure (Brancellao, Merenzao, Mouraton, Bastardo, Garnacha Tintorera), and the grapes were foot-trodden and fermented with whole-clusters (i.e. with the stems) in small open vats before transferring to 2,000 litre barrels for 11 months. It’s oh-so-fine and elegant and beautifully tailored to fit its shape. The aromas are pure and wild, suggestive of shiny cherry skins, fraises des bois and crushed purple flowers, while the flavours glide across the palate, evoking dark cherry, juicy red grapes, blood orange, a hint of white pepper (typical of Mencia) and a suggestion of cool minerals. It tastes best if you drink it slightly below room temperature. It’s an utterly beguiling Spanish red and you shouldn’t hesitate in snapping some up while stocks last. 13% alc. Drink now-2032.
Organically farmed
Vegan-friendly
Press review:
The Wine Advocate [bottled sample]: “The bottled 2023 Lousas Viñas de Aldea is perfumed, intoxicating and showy, with a floral note of dried rose petals that I also found in the Misturado from this same vintage. There's also a flinty smokiness that gives the wine a different twist. It's stunning and incredibly priced. Drink now-2032.” 95 points
The Wine Advocate [barrel sample]: “I tasted a very promising barrel sample of the 2023 Lousas Viñas de Aldea, cropped from a more Atlantic, cooler and rainier year (especially when compared with the super warm and dry 2022). Right now, it's super primary and they are slowly introducing larger oak foudres (3,000 litres) and lowering the impact of the oak in the wine. This has very good freshness, purity and elegance, reminiscent of past vintages like 2021 or 2016. It has terrific balance. Drink now-2032.” (94-96) points
Customer comment:
“We tried the Lousas Vinas de Aldea over the weekend. It was quite delicious. In fact it was so good we drank a bottle on Saturday and opened another on Sunday. So clearly I am going to need some more.” - Mr. Q.J.

