This wine is so beautiful that they were obliged to name it after its vineyard, ‘The Bull Swamp’, just to stop it getting too full of itself. It’s a fabulously expressive Pinot Noir, unfurling heady aromas of raspberry sorbet, tangerine peel, grenadine and sweet spices from the bazaar. It’s quite a light and delicate Pinot Noir, but full of character and surprisingly ample-fruited on the palate with delicate, lacy tannins, which allow the fruit to do its own thing, just offering a little background support. If it were from Burgundy, its ‘feminine’ qualities would drop the pin in the village of Chambolle-Musigny. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

The Australian Wine Companion: “A dry-grown vineyard with fruit from four distinct parcels making up the wine – another excellent offering and another year of low yields. It’s finely tuned with precise acidity and silky tannins, although there’s definition and shape, too. Expect heady aromas all floral and spicy, a mix of red cherries and Middle Eastern spices, including sumac with some chinotto/blood orange tanginess. It’s very much in its primary phase, and as delicious as this is now, more bottle age will reap rewards.” 96 points

Decanter: “Single-vineyard Pinot Noir from the warmer Bull Swamp site, showing darker fruit with raspberry, liquorice and violet perfume. The palate brings gentle earthiness, savoury spice and cashmere-soft tannins, finishing poised and harmonious. Drink now-2035.” 95 points

Jamie Goode: “Supple with some sappy green hints alongside sweet red cherry and wild strawberry fruit. Has some iron and mineral notes under the sleek fruit with well resolved tannins and some nice acidity. Refined and expressive with elegance but also ripeness. Multidimensional. Such precision and purity, but also offering deliciousness.” 95 points

Vinous: “The fragrant and ethereal 2023 Pinot Noir Bull Swamp delivers a pretty array of aromas; charming floral and musky tones are followed by red cherry and cranberry, supported by deep wells of earthy spice. Smoky volcanic flavors emerge with strong underlying power, although right now they sit a little in their shell. Fine yet meaty tannins and an elongated finish are strong signs that this will all come together beautifully over the next five years. Drink now-2033.” 94 points