A low-intervention orange-hued, dry rosé made from a grape, called Elbling, which almost became extinct, blended with equal parts Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, from a forgotten region, the Obermosel, on the German border with Luxembourg. You know, the usual.

It’s not exactly a wine that leaps off the page, so it has to vie for your attention in other ways and it does that by tasting fantastic! It’s a razor-sharp cocktail of strawberry, pink grapefruit and white peach, thrillingly acidulated, yet indulgently creamy, like a raspberry pavlova that has a mildly dangerous electric current passing through it.

The winemaker, Jonas Dostert, is carving something of a lone furrow in this neglected backwater of the Mosel Valley. He trained at Domaine Leflaive, before setting up on his own, and sees huge potential in this region. He farms organically and follows some of the biodynamic principles, without being a fundamentalist. One of Germany’s leading independent wine merchants, Vom Boden, says of Jonas Dostert: “For me what he is doing is one of the most exciting and provocative developments in German wine in many years.” 11% alc. Drink now-2028.