Marketing people use the word ‘luxury’ with abandon, because it’s so wonderfully unquantifiable. Soap and butter fall into the same category as yachts. In the wine trade, we hear a lot of talk about ‘luxury’ Champagnes, but no one seems to know where the inflection point is and nor do I, but this Champagne is definitely on the upward part of the curve.

We met the winemaker, Thomas Siret, who described this as a “gastronomic Champagne” and explained that “we only use barrels to broaden the wine, not for oak flavour” and the palate does feel rich and expansive, full of ripe fruit and savoury notes too, with walnuts, shortbread and crumble adding complexity. It’s a blend of 5 vintages (2013 through 2017) with fractional blending each year, hence the name ‘Perpétuelle’, as each vintage contains wine from the previous year dating back to their first vintage. Drink it with a luxury fish pie. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2038.

Press reviews:

Jamie Goode: “This is complex, layered and precise with lemon and toast, as well as lovely depth. Intense, mineral and bold with some savoury complexity.” 96 points (highest-scoring of the 48 artisan Champagnes tasted)

Vinous: “The NV Extra Brut Réserve Perpétuelle is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from the Côte de Bar and Côte des Blancs. The wine spend 6 years and 4 months on lees. Ripe apple, smooth yeast pastry and tender savouriness on the nose translate seamlessly to the palate. Roundness and suppleness of the plummy Pinot fruit are countered by vivid, creamy almost nutty saltiness. Nucances of roasted cashew and pecan add lovely overtones to this bright, layered wine. Drink now-2038.” 93 points