“I’ve never had a disappointing bottle of this.” - Jancis Robinson MW

Drink this now, by all means, as it’s a delicious, pristine-fruited sparkling wine made in the style of a petillant naturel (i.e. fermented in bottle like Champagne, but not disgorged), but please stash a few bottles away too, as it’s a wine that ages phenomenally well, gaining weight and richness as it does so. Master of Wine, Jancis Robinson, recently tasted the 2009 vintage (12 years on) and had this to say: “Irresistible, stunning wine that held its own when tasted alongside Cristal 2013 and Krug 2008.” The current release is 2017 (although it’s not declared on the label, so we treat it as NV, i.e. non-vintage), so based on my simple, back-of-a-postcard calculations, this should be at its peak from 2024 to 2029. 12.5% alc. Drink now (as an aperitif) or between 2024 and 2029 (as a richer sparkling wine to enjoy with food).

Press reviews:

Vinous: “A pétillant naturel from 40 to 80-year-old vines with zero chaptalisation, zero liqueur de tirage, and zero dosage. Aged 24 months on the lees. This is one of the better pet-nats I’ve tasted. Lemon and pineapple on the nose, with an underlying herbal character, and a long creamy finish.. Drink now-2035.” 94 points

Jancis Robinson MW: “Very lively bead and beautifully balanced with a distinctly saline note. So clean! Fresh, lively, delicate and appetising. Really grows on the finish. At first I thought it was not that persistent but it really curls around the back of the palate. It's feather-light, but the overall impression is that the palate is gently caressed with a feather. 12.5%. Drink now-2024” 16.5 points

Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com: “I can't help thinking that Jancis may have under-scored this wine when she tasted it in April this year, especially as the wine has proven to punch way above its price bracket and age incredibly well. Sea shells and honey on the nose and a super-fine unfurling of bubbles – reminds me of the foam lines left curving across the sand when the hiss of a lazy wave has retreated back down the beach. Hints of honey and honeysuckle, quince and the soft spiciness of ripe pear. I would expect a triple zero (dosage, chaptalisation, tirage) wine to be pretty austere and formidable – most are – but this is exceptionally gentle. The Vin Cognito crew say this will age. I have two more bottles, so watch this space... Seems insanely underpriced. Very Good Value.” 17.5 points

Decanter: “This methode ancestral sparkling wine is sourced from old Chenin Blanc vines from Jacky Blot's Montlouis vineyards. The 'Triple Zero' title comes from the three points in the process at which no sugar is added (in contrast to Champagne production). The grapes are harvested riper than for the Brut Tradition to counter this, fermenting spontaneously in barriques before the wine is transferred to bottles while there's still some residual sugar remaining. Fermentation continues in bottle, causing the build up of carbon-dioxide which results in fine bubbles, and the wine is aged on its lees for 24 months before disgorgement. It has saline notes on the nose along with citrus scents. In the mouth it is steely and dry, with citrus and apple given dimension by the slightly spiky texture and with a long, clean and subtle finish with a lick of lime juice. Jean-Philippe recommends pairing this with oysters or sea urchin.” 92 points

Customer comments:

“Such a splendid wine! It punches well above its price tag.” Mr. A.I.

”It was gorgeous.” - Mr. V. S.

”I have just tried the Triple Zero and it is every bit as sensational as you have suggested! May I please have 6 more bottles as I am unlikely to be able to make the first 6 last as long as I probably should.” - Mr. A.K.

“The Triple Zero is as good as your write up, if not better!” - Mr V.G.

”I think it’s great!” - Mr. H.S.