Montlouis 'Triple Zero', Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Loire, France NV
Montlouis 'Triple Zero', Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Loire, France NV
“So much more interesting than common-or-garden Champagne..” - Jancis Robinson MW
Drink this now, by all means, as it’s a delicious, pristine-fruited sparkling wine made in the style of a petillant naturel (i.e. fermented in bottle like Champagne, but not disgorged),but please stash a few bottles away too, as it’s a wine that ages phenomenally well, gaining weight and richness as it does so. Master of Wine, Jancis Robinson, recently tasted the 2009 vintage (12 years on) and had this to say: “Irresistible, stunning wine that held its own when tasted alongside Cristal 2013 and Krug 2008.” The current release is 2017 (although it’s not declared on the label, so we treat it as NV, i.e. non-vintage), so based on my simple, back-of-a-postcard calculations, this should be at its peak from 2024 to 2029. 12.5% alc. Drink now (as an aperitif) or between 2026 and 2029 (as a richer sparkling wine to enjoy with food).
Press Reviews:
Jancis Robinson MW: “Pale gold. Glorious Chenin on the nose. Toasty and tangy and dry on the end with more than a hint of Jurançon about it, oddly. But so much more interesting than common-or-garden champagne. Very Good Value.” 17 points
The Wine Advocate: “The NV Triple Zero, a sparkling Montlouis, opens with aromas of pear, peach, honey and white flowers. Moderately weighted, round and subtly sweet, it reveals a delicate mousse and a long, mouthwatering finish. Precise and elegant, this is a refined and beautifully crafted bottle.” 92 points
Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com: “I can't help thinking that Jancis may have under-scored this wine when she tasted it in April this year, especially as the wine has proven to punch way above its price bracket and age incredibly well. Sea shells and honey on the nose and a super-fine unfurling of bubbles – reminds me of the foam lines left curving across the sand when the hiss of a lazy wave has retreated back down the beach. Hints of honey and honeysuckle, quince and the soft spiciness of ripe pear. I would expect a triple zero (dosage, chaptalisation, tirage) wine to be pretty austere and formidable – most are – but this is exceptionally gentle. The Vin Cognito crew say this will age. I have two more bottles, so watch this space... Seems insanely underpriced. Very Good Value.” 17.5 points
Decanter (Natalie Earl): “A wine that manages to be both soft and vibrant, rich and mineral. An impressive feat. Bruised apple flesh and honeysuckle on the nose, with toasted brioche, walnut and green apple skin giving great complexity. Long on the finish with lovely acidity and a chalky texture. It's fun and incredibly drinkable but the complex varietal character of Chenin Blanc shines through. Old Chenin vines provide the fruit for this méthode ancestrale sparkling, which has had no chaptalisation, no liqueur de tirage and no liqueur de dosage added - hence the Triple Zero name. Spontaneously fermented, the wine is bottled before fermentation has finished, which is where it gains its bubbles. It's then aged on its lees for 24 months, lending depth and texture to this excellent value wine.” 93 points
James Suckling: “Comforting nose of apples, baked lemons, quince zest and some brioche, too. Medium body with fine bubbles and crisp acidity. Lively and agile with a mineral frame. Bone dry and bright at the center with weight. Flavorful and succulent finish. Drink or hold.” 93 points
Vinous: “The NV Montlouis-sur-Loire Triple Zero spends between two and three years on lees, lending a lovely richness to the mid-palate. It was bottled with no dosage, but picking later gave the wine balance and roundness‡no austerity or hardness. The Triple Z,ro is gently sparkling (bottles at 3 atmospheres rather than the usual 5-6 for champagne) with great clarity and precision. There,s excellent focus and tenderness here.” 92 points
Decanter Magazine (Jane Anson): “One of the world’s great-value sparkling wines, this is made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes, from 50-year-old vines fermented with natural yeasts. Triple Zéro means no sugar added at any point – you get crisp, focused notes of citrus and peaches. Certified organic.” 92 points
Revue des Vins de France: “Souvent imité, rarement égalé, Jacky Blog produit le petillant naturel de reference à Montlouis sur Loire… Il affine ses bulles et cherche plus de precision à chaque millésime… Sa finesse es sa régularité en font la référence des pétillants naturels de Loire. La demande dépasse l’offre.” 18/20
English translation: “Often imitated, rarely equaled, Jacky Blog produces the reference natural sparkling wine in Montlouis sur Loire… It refines its bubbles and seeks more precision with each vintage… Its finesse and consistency make it the benchmark for natural sparkling wines from the Loire. Demand exceeds supply.”
Customer comments:
“Such a splendid wine! It punches well above its price tag.” Mr. A.I.
”It was gorgeous.” - Mr. V. S.
”I have just tried the Triple Zero and it is every bit as sensational as you have suggested! May I please have 6 more bottles as I am unlikely to be able to make the first 6 last as long as I probably should.” - Mr. A.K.
“The Triple Zero is as good as your write up, if not better!” - Mr V.G.
”I think it’s great!” - Mr. H.S.