François Rousset-Martin began by selling 2/3 off his production to the local co-op, but kept back 1/3 of the wine he made to be bottled under his own eponymous label. As sommeliers and wine merchants began to discover the quality of his own label, he slowly phased out the co-op production and by 2018 he was only making wine under the Rousset-Martin label. There’s no miracle recipe for creating cult wines, but starting small and allowing others to find you purely through the quality of your produce is a little more tried-and-tested than most. This is his Aligoté, sourced from a tiny single hectare plot in Bouzeron on grey marl. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Vinous: “The 2022 Vin de France Aligoté Aligato is a lively expression of the variety, showing marked reduction at this early stage. Built around a firm line of jagged Aligoté acidity, the palate is driven by structure and energy. I suspect it will benefit from further maturation. Drink now-2029.” (88-90) points