If you don’t like Riesling, then you probably haven’t Riesled properly! This is a really magnificent example of dry Riesling, which feels as if it is lit from within by a filament of golden light. It’s quite rich in flavour, courtesy of the ageing in barrel, but there’s so much zip and zing from the lime, elderflower and lemon zest flavours that it doesn’t feel fat, the texture is silky and it feels full of vibrancy. The vines grow on very rare red slate, which confers a depth of flavour that is distinct from the more steely, mineral effects of blue slate. The grapes are hand-harvested and undergo spontaneous fermentation in barrel before ageing therein for 11 months. 3g/l of RS. Drink now-2030.