NEW! Antonio Madeira 'Vinhas Velhas' Branco, Dao, Portugal 2022
NEW! Antonio Madeira 'Vinhas Velhas' Branco, Dao, Portugal 2022
“I first discovered this several years ago on the list at one of chef Philip Howarth’s restaurants. It contained so much energy it seemed to be plugged directly into the mains electricity. It reminds me of a Coche-Dury Meursault Premier Cru without a price tag that requires remortgaging the house." - Neal Martin
As much a history project as a wine project, Antonio has about 20 plots (some dating back to the end of the 19th century!), dotted around the mountainsides of the Dao region at various altitudes, ranging from a 0.2 hectare plot to a 0.6 hectare plot, totalling just 6 hectares. He farms organically, using ‘regenerative biodynamics’, and although he works with growers, he dictates how they work, when they pick, etc. It’s a pure labour of love that necessitates an insane amount of work, with each vine receiving more man-hours than would typically correlate to a wine at this price. He vinifies each plot separately, and, for the reds, he selects the standout parcel each year and bottles it as a ‘single vineyard’ expression, but he has so little white wine that he can’t afford to do that, so this is his top wine, the ‘Vinhas Velhas’ (aka ’Old Vine’) field blend. 13% alc. Drink now-2037.
Neal Martin: “This flagship white comes from parcels of vines in the Dão region that exceed 80 years of age, a blend that includes Siria, Fernão Pires, Bical, Encruzado and Cerceal. Around 15% is aged in French oak, with the rest done in stainless steel. The 2022 presents silvery glints in the glass as the bouquet explodes with intense mineral-driven Japanese yuzu, limoncello and quince aromas, all neatly wrapped up in a nuanced veil of reduction. It has scintillating delineation and evokes images of freshly shucked oyster shells and sea cave. The palate is just as arresting, brimming with energy and tension. Again, there is a subtle reduction at play, one that would make Jean-François Coche proud. There is so much depth of flavour here. That marine theme continues, with notes of tangerine and yuzu on the finish. The only negative? I spent the rest of my time in Lisbon desperately searching for another bottle to buy to no avail! This is as good as any white Burgundy Premier Cru you want to put in front of me, and likewise, whilst it dishes out pleasure, it will evolve over the next 12 to 15 years. Drink 2025-2040.” 95 points
THIS WINE IS OFFERED ON A PRE-ARRIVAL BASIS. WE WILL BE SHIPPING IT WHEN THE WEATHER COOLS DOWN, HOPEFULLY OCTOBER. WE WILL BE IN TOUCH AS SOON AS IT IS HERE.