The foothills of the Black Forest in Breisgau have similar terroir to Burgundy, with weathered shell-rich limestone soil and this astonishing white from Bernhard Huber could easily be mistaken for a Meursault. It was fermented and aged in barrel in the same way as Huber’s top Chardonnays, but it doesn’t command the same lofty price tags, because it’s ‘only’ a blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. That little world ‘only’ is not being very fair to Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris, because they are noble grape varieties in their own right, but they don’t have the cachet of Chardonnay. However, unless cachet is terribly important to you, we suggest you load up, because this is a tremendous bargain. It tastes like a Burgundy from one of those smart addresses, where ‘struck flint’ aromas are the signature, but it’s not all chipped stone, there are citrus notes and white-fleshed fruits and dainty floral touches too. 13% alc. Organic certified. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): “This wine had one up over me every time I lifted the glass to my nose. It kept jabbing at me. And it kept changing. The first time I thought: crikey that’s just like someone lit a paraffin lantern wick in a small hut with no windows! Shockingly smoky, eye-watering gasoline. I put it down quickly and looked at it as if it might bite me. The second time I picked it up more gingerly, and it had completely changed. It smelled like soap made with lemon balm: sudsy, a little oily (in a fragrant way), and scrub-me fresh. When I sipped it, the smell changed again. This time, flooded with an oceanic tide of citrus, the smell reminded me of the time(s) I burned yellow lentils. Just a little bit burned of course, the bit you have to jab at on the bottom of the pot with a spade to get it off, but it comes with this fantastic umami, caramel, bitter crunchy crust. Add blood orange, bitter-orange peel, lemongrass and ferocious, oceanic saltiness. For one moment, I thought I’d nailed it. And then it changed again. Drink now-2038.” 17.5 points