The foothills of the Black Forest in Breisgau have similar terroir to Burgundy, with weathered shell-rich limestone soil and this astonishing white from Bernhard Huber could easily be mistaken for a Meursault. It was fermented and aged in barrel in the same way as Huber’s top Chardonnays, but it doesn’t command the same lofty price tags, because it’s only a blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. That little world ‘only’ is not being very fair to Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris, because they are noble grape varieties in their own right, but they don’t have the cachet of Chardonnay. However, unless cachet is terribly important to you, we suggest you load up, because this is a tremendous bargain. It tastes like a Burgundy from one of those smart addresses, where ‘struck flint’ aromas are the signature, but it’s not all chipped stone, there are citrus notes and white-fleshed fruits and dainty floral touches too. 13% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “Huber's 2021 Breisgau is a Pinot Blanc blended with Pinot Gris that was vinified like the Chardonnays. The wine offers a clear, elegant and quite substantial, limestone-driven and slightly reductive nose with ripe fruit aromas and refreshing and spicy phenolic notes. Full-bodied, tight and fresh on the palate, this is a clear, dry and structured white with a characterfully grippy limestone finish. The acidity is fresh yet fine and well integrated into the clear and well-defined fruit. The finish is long and saline and stimulating in its bite. Drink now-2025.” 92 points