Such is the demand of Sylvain Cathiard’s wines, that when we last visited the domaine, we walked through his cellar and there were 3 small boxes of Vosne-Romanée sitting by themselves on a pallet in the middle of the room. I asked him who they were for and he replied “Oh, that’s Japan’s allocation.”

Although more famous for his fabulous reds, which command equally fabulous prices, Sylvain makes one white wine and this is it, a Bourgogne Aligoté, made from young vines in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. It’s a beautifully pristine white, evocative of mountain stream water flavoured with apples, grapefruit, pine nuts and leafy herbs. It’s a silky and juicy white with bright minerality for serving to your most wine-curious friends. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2028.