With cult wines, you have to be all solemn and po-faced, or the cult wine loses its status. You can’t mention aromas or flavours, that’s vulgar, like asking a magician how he does his trick, but you can bang on about the soil or what isn’t in the wine (sulphur, fining agents, cultured yeasts etc). So, this is Chardonnay from 4 separate parcels around the village of Courgis, all on Kimmeridgian soil, which any hipster worth his man bun will know is a sedimentary deposit of fossiliferous marine clay. It goes through a long alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in barrel and is then aged for 11 months in neutral oak. Tiny addition of sulphur dioxide, only at the time of bottling. No fining, no filtration or cold stabilisation. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2032.