There’s such a blast of yellow citrus in the aromas of this Carricante that it almost makes you recoil in your seat. Grapefruit peel and lemon pith, as well as notes of sea spray and crumbled rock come through loud and clear and it’s only on the palate that the sweet succulence of nectarine come to the rescue. It’s an electric wine, bristling with energy, delivering waves of lime, kumquat and preserved lemon amid streaks of lip-smacking salinity. A plate of fresh langoustines please, cameriere! 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press reviews:

JancisRobinson.com: “At first, a struck-flint note. Then lemon barley, lemon boiled sweets and then masses of bitter herbs into a marine-like salinity. Dried grapefruit peel, broom blossom and hawthorn. Watching them, quietly in their glasses, it's an extraordinary thing: now, they swap places. The older wine (the 2016, tasted alongside) turns from rich to mineral; the younger wine from flint and herbs to tropical. Pomelo and green mango and garrigue and smoky breadth on the finish. Drink now-2032.” 17+ points

Vinous: “Remarkably fresh, the 2022 Etna Bianco wafts up with an herbal-tinged bouquet that blends wet stone and hints of smoke with crushed almonds and pear. This washes across the palate with a mineral-laden wave of ripe orchard fruits, offset by a touch of sour lime. It finishes crisply refreshing and long, with a bump of mouth-watering acidity that calls the taster back to the glass. Drink now-2028.” 90 points