A wine with enough energy to power a small town. I’m not sure what Rafael Palacios does in the vineyard (this is very much a ‘vineyard’ wine, not a ‘winery’ wine), but the grapes bring a kind of electrolyte intensity to the ‘As Sortes’ 2024. The thrill here isn’t expensive oak or multi-grape blending, it’s conveying the essence of a special site, using one grape, in this case Godello, as the magnifying glass. Flavours of lime, chalk and lemon sherbet do the talking. 14.5% alc. Drink now-2034