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Kumeu River 'Maté's Vineyard' Chardonnay, Auckland, New Zealand 2021
Kumeu River 'Maté's Vineyard' Chardonnay, Auckland, New Zealand 2021
James Suckling: "Lots of minerality with crushed stone, chalk, white grapefruit, peach stones, white apricots, wild herbs and lavender. Touch of cedar. Evolves to nutmeg and crushed almonds. Wow. It really builds on the palate, leading to a crescendo and intensity that blows your mind. Compact and phenolic, yet so agile and refined. Goes on for minutes." 99 points
Vinous: “The 2021 Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard offers greater tension and sapidity compared with how the more relaxed 2020 did upon release. It will need time in bottle to shake off the rawness of youth. It is focused, concentrated and precise. There's sophisticated use of oak, which integrates seamlessly within the package. I got a cold the day after this was first opened, and almost a week later, when my senses returned, it remained impeccable, focused and compact. Drink 2023-2035.” 97 points
Jancis Robinson MW: “Savoury nose suggests a firm backbone. Really concentrated and richer than the Hunting Hill. Long and very youthful. For the moment, it’s a coiled spring with lots to chew on on the finish. Ideally it should be drunk at 9–10 years old but I suspect most of it is hoovered up long before that. Drink now-2038.” 17++ points
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“Flinty, fine, cool-climate Chardonnay.” - The Australian Wine Companion, 96 points
We love a side project, because it’s often the genus of something bright and beautiful, like a sun spot, breaking away from its star. Lowboi is the side project of Guy Lyons, the winemaker at Forrest Hill, and if this is the shape of things to come, then it’s time to shiver with antici… pation. It’s a sensational debut. Tender white-fleshed fruits cut with a dash of lime define the nose, but it’s the palate that really sets the pulse racing with apricot and grapefruit preserve, orange peel and millefeuille pastry. This is serious modern Australian Chardonnay, finely tailored, understated in terms of oak, impressively energetic in terms of fruit and utterly delicious. We tasted it alongside hundreds of Australian Chardonnays and it was on a par with Tolpuddle from Tasmania and Shaw and Smith’s Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay in terms of sheer panache and downright deliciousness. It’s not cheap, but quality comes from hard graft and you can taste the determination to make something outstanding. Bravo! 13% alc. Drink now-2028.
The Australian Wine Companion: “Fruit from the Springviews vineyard, on the southern side of the range, planted in 1985. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, full solids to barrel (15%), wild ferment, partial malo-lactic fermentation. There is something very special about the Springviews vineyard site, and this wine. Flinty, fine, cool-climate Chardonnay here, with layers of curry leaf, brine, citrus pith, white peach, nectarine, cap gun and fennel flower. The phenolics have a jasmine tea character to them, and cradle the fruit in the cups of their hands, all the way across the palate and into a long finish.” 96 points (Gold Medal)
Roger Jones (The Buyer): “This is bright and funky, full of life and excitement, made by Guy Lyons the winemaker at Forrest Hill. New forward-thinking Chardonnay that delivers, it’s exciting with racy flavours.”
Decanter: “A real discovery at January’s annual Australia Trade Tasting in London. From the Porongurup sub-region of Great Southern, this is wild-yeast fermented in barrel and aged for 12 months in 10% new oak, revealing aromas and flavours of ripe yellow peach and crushed herbs on a soft, caressing palate backed by bright acidity. Understated and delicious. Drink 2020-2025.” 92 points
The Wine Advocate (other vintage): “Gently reductive, spicy and leads with notes of crushed pistachio and cashew, curry leaf and yellow peach. This has a structural minerality that tightens the screws on the perception of acidity and freshness, and the fruit feels both delicate and floral. This is exceptional. Winemaker Guy Lyons is on a roll currently; the wines have never been better. There are notes of dried herbs—rosemary and a hint oregano—with sweet tobacco and caper brine. This is quite epic. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.” 96 points
“A truly heavenly Chardonnay.” - The Australian Wine Companion, 97 points
“So good. Again!” - The Wine Advocate, 96 points
The Rocket Chardonnay has burst onto the scene (ha! ha! like a rocket, geddit?! brilliant!) since its launch (ha! ha! like a rocket, geddit?! brilliant!) in 2017. It has already become a cult wine without even trying (actually... trying to become a cult wine instantly disqualifies you from becoming one). The aromas lift off (ha! ha! like a rocket, geddit! brilliant!), displaying all manner of ineffable loveliness, best described as a continental breakfast trolley tumbling down the side of a volcano, so there’s lime marmalade, toast, warm viennoiserie, pumice stone, struck match, flint and half a grapefruit. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2032.
Press reviews:
The Australian Wine Companion: “The back label confides 'Made on earth by humans.' It is a truly heavenly Chardonnay, with impeccable balance and mouthfeel, attributes it will retain as it matures in bottle. The fruit has the whip hand, not the oak.“ 97 points
The Wine Advocate: "The 2022 Limited Release The Rocket Chardonnay is a more open-weave, raw, powerful rendition of Chardonnay than the sleek Tilbury, tasted alongside. This has crushed curry leaf in profusion, sugared pink grapefruit, apple pie, layers of preserved lemon and even a hint of loquat. There is an all-consuming galaxy of flavour and texture here. Some roasted almonds and crushed shells close the palate. So good. Again! Drink now-2035." 96 points
Decanter (previous vintage): “It’s lean, sprightly and immediately delicious. The racy front palate has fresh lemon zing and a smart savoury drawstring around the waist. Complexity unfurls as flavours gently roll without ever intruding on the lightness and bounce of the palate. It’s cleverly understated, yet highly sophisticated; a lively dancer that’s great fun to be with.” 98 points
“White Burgundy lovers should put this on their shopping list.” - Rebecca Gibb MW, 95 points
A very distinguished Chardonnay indeed and a fine partner to Novum’s beautiful Pinot Noir. It’s subtle and restrained in its aromas, less oaky than you might anticipate from a New World Chardonnay and more like an ambitious Pouilly-Fuissé, with its stylish impression of chiselled stone and shaved lemon peel, hazelnut yoghurt, oatmeal and a hint of cold white butter. It’s like a confluence between New Zealand purity and Burgundian elegance. Grapes are whole bunch pressed, settled overnight before being racked to French barriques for wild primary fermentation. The wine then spends an additional 11 months in barrel (20% new oak), where it goes through a wild malolactic fermentation, with the lees stirred on every full moon. 13% alc. Organic & biodynamic (not certified). Drink now-2025.
Press review:
Vinous: “This unshowy Chardonnay seduces you with its understated but savoury style. Full-bodied yet perfectly tied together by a fine line of acidity that pierces the rich core of fruit from its beginning to its lengthy finish. Expect subtle oak-derived nutty characters allied with oatmeal, citrus and nectarine. White Burgundy lovers should put this on their shopping list. Drink now-2025.” 95 points
Customer comments:
”Stunning!” - Mr. G.F.
”If we were to talk in hushed tones about what would constitute a Tasmanian Grand Cru Chardonnay, the Tolpuddle would be the front-runner. Superb.” -The Australian Wine Companion, 98 points
A stunning, white-knuckle ride of a Chardonnay. Rocky mineral aromas vie with grapefruit and waxy lemons and slices of white truffle. If it were Burgundy, it would be a Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, jam-packed with tangy fruit and woody high notes, but it isn't, it's from an island 12,000 miles away in the Tasman Sea. Astonishing wine! 13.5% alc. Drink now-2036.
Press review:
The Australian Wine Companion: “Another alluring Coal River Chardonnay release from the folks at Tolpuddle. It's at once full and concentrated but is reined in by a tight framework of acidity, coiling on rails of minerality before powering across the palate. Tension and detail on point, light textural phenolic elements give it a sleek and silken mouthfeel. The fruit tones of white peach, nectarine and citrus are cloaked in soft spice, white floral tones, struck match, almond paste and crushed stone and the wine displays a stony elegance and seriousness on the long finish. If we were to talk in hushed tones about what would constitute a Tasmanian Grand Cru Chardonnay, the Tolpuddle would be the front-runner. Superb.” 98 points
The Wine Advocate: “The 2022 Chardonnay is a quieter, fleshier wine than the 2021 tasted alongside, and this shows delicacy and precision. The persistence of this wine through the finish is admirable, and while it could be overlooked for the flashier vintages either side, it will remain an elegant and restrained expression of this vineyard. I love this wine. It's totally in the zone for me. It's salty and elongated and powerful, but it has restraint in spades too. Drink now-2036.“ 98 points
Decanter (previous vintage): “A wonder of lightness and precision; a hedonistic mix of immediate restrained pleasure and long-term intellectual provocation. An amazingly subtle and complex finish. I adore this wine. Drink now-2050.“ 99 points and Decanter ‘White Wine of the Year’.
This a really exciting new wine from Domaine Bernard Moreau, sourced from some of the best parcels in Saint Aubin and priced very keenly for a Premier Cru white Burgundy from the small-but-perfectly-formed 2020 vintage. It has real poise and balance and a classical feel, with the fruit concentration, the acidity, the oak influence and the mineral aspect all in perfect harmony. It has everything we look for in a white Burgundy and, what’s more, it’s almost exclusive to Vin Cognito (only one other UK merchant received an allocation, as 2020 yielded such a tiny harvest). 13% alc. Drink now-2028.
Organically farmed

